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Ecuador Galapagos

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Ecuador Galapagos Log (2008-07-11 --> 2008-08-03)

Leaders: Eric Malkowski and Arlyn Illgenfritz

Students: Lindsey Benfield, Patty Carter, Reid DeCarlo, Jack Gaiennie, Ali Jones, Ansley Kenney, Betsy Schell, Joe Webb

Trip Update 7-20-08 (Finally!!)

Hello to family and friends. Here is our trip log through the Galapagos. Sorry we could not get it to you sooner. It has been tricky to find Internet and so we have only blogged our trip through day 7. We are now on day 10 and will try to get the full update to you as soon as possible, but now we have to head into Rio Negro. We will do what we can, promise! This trip has been great!!!!

 

Thanks,

Arlynn and Eric

 

 

 

Trip Log Ecuador Galapagos

 

Day 1

After a day full of travel and plenty of airports we made it to Quito! As we piled all of our stuff in the van our excitement was apparent. On the short ride to Hotel Antinea stories and questions were shouted all over as we got to know one another. What a great group! We also met our amazing guide Wilson, the man who knows more about Ecuador and adventure than anyone in the world. We were even entertained by fire breathers that jump in front of our van at one of the stop lights. At the hotel we ran from room to room looking at the views, the cool Ecuadorian art, and finding secret passages in the fantastic old building. After some pizza, our very first Moonup, and some pretty intense games of Catch Phrase (nothing helps you to get to know a group like shouting random words at one another) we climbed into our beds for some much needed sleep before our amazing Ecuadorian adventure really kicks off.

 

Day 2

Today we woke to fresh croissants and some of the best juice we had ever had (Naranjalla fruit). After filling our bellies we set off to see old town Quito, the oldest ¨Old Town¨ in all of South America! First we headed to the Basillica del Voto National and climbed all the way to the top of the spire! Joe and Betsy led the way up countless steps and ladders. What a view! We were all impressed with Quito´s size and diversity of architecture. Once we had all arrived back on the ground floor we headed to La Compania, a gorgeous church covered with over two tons of gold leaf! We sat in awe as Wilson filled us in on the history of this beautiful place. Taking in all the art was impressive and AJ wowed us all when she was the first one to find a statue of an indigenous person on the walls. After gaping for a while we walked to San Fransisco a centuries old monastery in the heart of town. Lindsay and Patty demonstrated to us the cool acoustics developed in this historical place by having a conversation in whispers across long hall way. After checking out the art we took a break on the steps and looked out over a beautiful square. Jack and AJ took this time to have their sandals shined by some of the local boys that followed us around. They now have the shiniest Chacos and Rainbows in all of South America if not the world. After lunch we were off the Middle of the World! We saw water flush in different directions, tested our strength, picked each other up with our fingers, learned about some of Ecuador’s snakes and fish, and Ansley balanced a raw egg on a nail! We also learned about Ecuadorian traditions and indigenous people and practiced with a blow dart gun. Reid and Lindsay were quite impressive with this and not only did they shot the dart straight and remarkably far, they also looked great in the traditional toucan feather headdress. On the way home we grabbed some ice cream and learned all the steps involved in making it from fresh fruit. By the time we hit the sack we were exhausted and happy. What a great first day! What a great start!

 

Day 3

We woke up early today, grabbed some of our new favorite juice with breakfast and headed off to the airport to fly to the Galapagos! After three hours in the air we touched down on Baltra Island. We were met by our guide and went straight to our new home, a bright red sailboat call the Encantada. The crew were friendly and our bunks surprisingly cozy for a boat. We ate a great lunch on board and then took off in a dinghy in search of wildlife. We traveled to a place called sea turtle cove where we saw herons, blue footed boobies, pelicans, and sea lions. Once inside the cove we turned off our motor and paddled deep into the mangrove forest. With only the sounds of the paddles and birds around us we watched as five sea giant green sea turtles approached our boat to check us out! Patty has a special skill for spotting animals and always kept us in the know while Betsy and Joe kept the mangrove branches from knocking us into the water with our new friends. These sea turtles came so close we could have touched them and they seemed to like us because they stayed around for quite a while. After our safari we climbed back on board for a great dinner and Moonup. We were exhausted after all of our activities and all quickly fell asleep to the gentle rock of the boat.

 

Day 4

We woke up to the ringing of the breakfast bell and wandered up to the galley for some fresh juice, eggs, sausage, fruit, and toast. After slathering on some sunscreen we headed form Rabina Island and beached our dinghy on its red sandy coast. Throughout this trip we discover that every island we go to has a unique and vibrant sand on its beaches, just one more thing that makes the Galapagos so cool. On Rabina we spotted some nesting pelicans and got to watch as they fed their young. While watching a bird regurgitate its previous meal into the waiting mouths of it young is what some might call ¨gross¨, we all felt very lucky to be able to see it so close in the wild. We finished our walk around the island and then took to the water for our very first snorkel. Buddies Jack and Joe led the way and we all got to see some amazing sea life. Lindsey pointed out some really cool starfish and Ansley kept on a constant lookout for sharks. We eventually climbed back on board the Encantada and sailed to Santiago Island. The sail was great, beautiful weather, great wind and even better company. We all hung out on deck and chatted and played games while always keeping a constant eye on the five frigate birds that were catching a ride with us on the tops of our masts. Reid did get pooped on once, but after a good laugh and cleaning up there were no more issues. After our chill out time on deck, we were ready to get in the water as soon as we arrived at Santiago. The sand here was black with a smattering of white, a color Jack termed as ¨Oreo¨. As soon as we hit the beach we put on our gear and swam out for our snorkel. AJ and Eric were the first to get to swim with a sea lion! We did a few laps and climbed out to drip dry as we went on an amazing sunset walk around the island. The timing of this walk proved to be perfect because we got to see all of the animals out for dinner. Our first impressive sight was pointed out by Betsy; a pile of sea iguanas. They sit on top of one another to stay warm so there was about 100 in two square yards. Very cool! We got to check out three colonies of sea lions including the bulls and tons of frigate nests. The whole walk was great, but it was the tail end that was spectacular. All at once Ansley and AJ pointed out a sea lion fishing and going after fish in a small lagoon right below us. While we were all watching this excitedly, Lindsay and Patty pointed sky ward where we could see five frigates playing catch with a fish in midair. After we watched the animals eat we went back to Encantada to have dinner ourselves and hit the sack. Being a salty sea dog is tiring work.

 

Day 5

Ahhh the breakfast bell. So nice to wake up to a good breakfast and the sun coming over the ocean all around us. After fueling up we went ashore to San Bartolome Island, the most famous and picturesque island in all of the Galapagos! Our first goal of the day was to climb to the top of this small mountainous island to check out the view. Joe and Reid led the way, jogging up the steps for a while. At the top of the 372 steps (thanks to Patty and AJ for the count) we took photos, including our first of many ¨Moondance Special¨ photos. Let’s just say it is a lot easier to spell out YMCA with your arms than Moondance, but we’ve got skills. Photo shoot complete we headed down to complete the longest and coolest snorkel ever! WE took the dinghy around to the other side of the island, did our professional fall back entry into the water and we were off. We snorkeled all the way back around to the beach! This was everyone’s favorite sot. We saw sharks, beautiful fish, starfish, sea lions, and even penguins, Betsy’s favorite animal! After all of our energy was spent snorkeling, we vegged out on the beach and watched the sea lions and penguins bob in and out of the water until it was time for lunch and another great sail. We all played Catch Phrase (our favorite pastime) as we sailed to Chinese Hat Island. Here we hiked and snorkeled from the beach. We also played a few very serious games of ¨Birdie on a Perch¨, ¨Big Booty¨, and ¨Ninja Moose¨. AJ was great at birdie on a perch and won almost every time no matter her partner and Joe made some of the best ninja sounds we had ever heard during ninja moose. We had a sea lions join our group while snorkeling and follow us around as if he thought he were on a Moondance trip. We headed back on board to enjoy the sunset from the deck. After dinner Jack got a burst of energy and had us all laughing hysterically while we sailed for Pinzeron Island. When we were too tired to move any more we headed to our bunks and to sleep to the roll of the ship, something that we have all grown to love.

 

Day 6

We woke up early to catch a sunrise walk on Pinzeron Island. We knew it would be an eventful hike when we were greeted by a giant sea lion bull barking on our landing site. Reid found a good way around and we all gave the bull a wide berth as we followed Reid to the trail. It was beautiful to see the sun coming up over the water and island with the silhouettes of frigates catching the breakfast. After about an hour walking on the island, our stomachs were growling so we headed back to have our own breakfast. After we ate we did one last sail to Santa Cruz Island and then headed to Charles Darwin Station! Here we saw land turtles as big as coffee tables and bright yellow land iguanas. We even got to see Lonesome George, the most famous (and hardest to spot) animal in all of the Galapagos! After our visit to the station we headed to the boat for one last meal on board and then we walked for about an hour to a beautiful white sand beach for some fun in the sun. Patty, Betsy, and Ansley made friends with some other students and Joe, Arlynn, and Eric raced on the sand. Covered in sand, we went back into town to do some tourist shopping at the stores and a local artisan market that our guide knew about. Finally we headed to a nice restaurant in town for some grub. A local music group moved in not too soon after us and Lindsey and Patty danced to entertain us and all of the other patrons in the place. After dinner we went to a hotel to sleep and get rested before our big travel day tomorrow. We will miss the Galapagos, but are so excited about the rest of our trip!

 

Day 7

We woke up early to pack and squeeze in one last hike before took off. We met a new guide who took us to a lava tube, AJ´s goal of the trip! After learning about the different formations and causes we jumped back in the bus and went to a place where we got to see giant sea turtles in the wild. Our guide, Tony, was an expert in all things tortoise, so we got to learn all about them and their history. After our quick visit we were off to the airport to fly back to the mainland. We all sat together and joked and napped on the ride back and were so excited to see Wilson’s smiling face at the Quito airport. We piled on to the van and headed up into the Andes. After a few hours we made to our hotel, Tierra del Vulcan. This place was amazing! The warm fireplaces, thatch roof, and old Ecuadorian furniture made us all feel quite cozy. We had a great dinner served to us by the cowboys that run this place who were dressed in the traditional ponchos and hats. A family style meal in an old farm house by candlelight up in the Andes away from everything really could not get any better. After dinner we sat down in a family room warmed by a fireplace and had one of the best Moonups ever. We all grew closer during this long talk and the bonds we formed will not be forgotten. This is one of the most impressive groups of young people I have ever encountered and I admire and am impressed by every single one of them. If you looked the world over you could not find a better Moondance family. After some late night candy around a stove we all crawled into our bunks under the thatch roof and fell asleep under our toasty five blankets. We have a big day of horseback riding tomorrow and need to get our rest. What a great group! What a great trip!

 

Trip Update 7-26-08 

 

Day 8
Today we woke up early to prepare for horseback riding! We ate a big breakfast and put on our wool ponchos and chaps. Reid and Ansley got some especially furry chaps, and looked like either authentic Andean cowboys, or just llamas, one of the two. We were each assigned a horse, and even though Lindsey was a little nervous about riding, she and Mango became fast friends. We were all awed by the beauty of the Andean farmlands and valleys as we headed up into the mountains. AJ is a horse pro and led the way giving helpful tips from the trail. I must say we all looked pretty amazing on our horses in our chaps and ponchos! We stopped for some local herbal tea and took some time to appreciate the views. We headed back to our cozy hotel with a thatch roof for lunch, and then off to Cotopaxi National Park! Once there we went for a hike around the base of Volcano Cotopaxi, the second largest volcano in Ecuador and the closest point to the sun on earth! We balanced on logs to cross a stream and wandered in a marshy field filled with endemic birds. Thank goodness for waterproof hiking boots! Betsy and Lindsey led us all as we marched into the mud. Dirty and happy, we piled back into the bus and headed to Quilotoa. Our new sleeping spot was an old farmhouse converted into a hostel. We ate an amazing organic food dinner all grown and made on the hostel grounds. Patty and Joe made friends with the massive St. Bernard family dog. After a great Moonup, we all piled into our bunk beds for some much needed sleep.

Day 9
We were sleeping on a farm, so that means we get up with the animals! First order of business was helping in breakfast prep., so we all took turns milking the cows. Jack was a pro, and quickly filled a cup, while Eric somehow managed to get covered in milk and mud! Chores completed we headed in to the house where a local artist had stopped by to sell some of his traditional paintings. We had a big breakfast, and geared up to hike to the Quilotoa Crater Lake. Wow! What a long way down! Water in hand, we set out and were covered head to toe with volcanic ash. The lake was unbelievably blue and clear! When we finally made it down and jumped in kayaks, we were surprised to find that the paddles were hand-made of wood and weighed about 25 lbs.! Joe and Lindsey were expert paddlers, and got quite an arm workout as well! AJ and Ansley found one of the hot springs that fed the lake, and we all followed them over to see it. Soon, it was time to head up, so we beached the kayaks and started the long hike back up. Patty and Joe led the way and set a good pace for the rest of us. After about two hours, we made it and were greeted by the friendly faces of the locals who had set up a market while we were gone. We bought some alpaca hats to keep our heads warm visited another local artist who made famous masks. We are tired out from the hike (at 14,000ft by the way) and welcomed the break in the van as we drove to a completely different climate zone, the Amazon Rain Forest! We made it to Baños, considered the gateway to the rain forest, and stopped for the night at a hostel. We showered the volcanic ash off of us, and had a great dinner with ice cream to help us fall fast asleep.

Day 10
We woke up and walked to breakfast in town. Jack and Reid led a discussion that had us all laughing hysterically! We then got in the bus to continue our journey to the rain forest. We stopped at a beautiful waterfall not only to check out the view, but to pile into a basket/gondola that took across a huge gorge and right over the top of the waterfall. Once on the other side, AJ found a giant tire swing and was the first to try it out, swinging up into the canopy of leaves. We walked down to a stream and decided we should cross it! The water was cold, but Joe and Lindsey courageously led the way, and we all made it across safely. We needed a snack so Wilson grabbed us some grenadia, an indigenous fruit that weird looking, tasted great! Ansley and Patty loved it and ate two a piece! After that delicious snack, we zoomed back to the other side and drove to Rio Negro. We stopped only to catch trout for lunch (and clean it ourselves) and play volleyball while it was cooked. We arrived at Encanta Natural Hotel. We settled in, and headed to the pool and volleyball court for some fun, and Wilson had a plan of his own. Almost everyone went into the river in their full clothes! After drying off a bit, we met in the tree house-like dining room for a much needed meal and then moved to a thatch-roofed hut for the most picturesque Moonup ever!

Day 11
We woke to the sounds of parrots and rain outside our windows, just little reminders that we were in the Amazon Rain Forest! After breakfast we drove to the school in the center of Rio Negro. Advertisements for a summer English camp put on by us were hanging all over town for a week previous to our arrival and when we got to school we were greeted with 60 smiling faces. We spent the first morning figuring out the speaking levels of the kids and playing outside. Reid, Joe, and Jack got a pretty intense game of futbol started on the playground and Lindsey and Ansley were attacked with hugs for the good part of an hour. After all of the chaos had subsided, we gave some really great English lessons!  For lunch we hiked further into the forest to another tree house-looking place for amazing organic pizzas! We spent the afternoon preparing for the coming days of teaching. Betsy and Ansley were great at making up games for the kids to play to easily teach English to the kids. When finished, we headed back to our hotel and found the local farmers ready for a game of volleyball. We were happy to oblige, and the fun lasted well into the night. What a wonderful first day in the rain forest!

 

 

 

 

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