Last bonjour from Paris!
July 1, 2024
Since we left you last, we took a train to Paris and immediately dropped our bags at the hotel before heading to a nearby mall to start our shopping spree. After a few kids bought some items, we returned to the hotel to drop off the bags and then walked to Notre Dame. We marveled at the architecture and took pictures in front of the grand church. From there, we enjoyed a nice Italian dinner, satisfying our cravings for pizza and pasta. After dinner, we walked alongside the Seine River and surprised the kids with a sunset boat ride that passed by the Eiffel Tower just in time to see it sparkle. The plan went smoothly, and the kids were amazed by the twinkling tower with the Olympic rings attached. We did Moonup on the boat, and from a leader’s perspective, it was the coolest Moonup experience of our careers. We ended the night late and got a little shut-eye before our big day on the town. The next day, we shopped all day and ended the evening with an incredible French dinner at Bullion Julien, a stunning restaurant that strives to serve quality food at a low price. Crepes followed, and we walked back to our hostel to escape the threatening storms before our final Moonup of the trip.
The past three weeks have been nothing short of an adventure. Your kids have hiked in the rugged Pyrenees, guided by a Frenchman who provided us with many memories they will surely tell you about. They have sea kayaked in the Mediterranean Sea and sunbathed on Spanish beaches. They conquered half of the Tour du Mont Blanc and marveled at the Alps. They’ve crossed borders on foot, eaten local foods, traveled by train across France, pushed themselves physically and mentally, and seen things that only some can dream of. But most importantly, they’ve opened up to a group of strangers, gained confidence in themselves, developed their mental fortitude, understood the importance of a positive attitude, gained new leadership skills, and embarked on a journey of self-understanding that some will never experience. Your kids are becoming more of themselves, and for that, we are grateful. Thank you again from the bottom of our hearts for sending them on this Moondance Adventure. We know they have enjoyed it as much as we have.
P.S. If your kids come home saying that a budget is just a suggestion, they didn’t get it from us. 😉
Much love and appreciation,
-Corey Robertson and Hayden Rowland
Ciao, bonjour, and hello parents!
June 27, 2024
The travel day from L’escala to Chamonix was long. We caught an hour bus from our campsite in Spain to Girona station, took a 6-hour TGV train to Paris, then a 3-hour train to Geneva that was delayed by an hour, and finally an hour bus to our hostel in Chamonix, arriving around midnight. Helen and Jack read, Gigi caught up on sleep, and Pierson raided the snack cart. We had a quick moonup after arriving, whispering in the room and holding in our giggles before packing up for the next day and getting some much-needed rest.
The next morning, we woke up early, had another quick French breakfast, and then loaded into two vans to shuttle to our trailhead. The drive was through windy mountain roads and a long tunnel that cut straight through the Mont Blanc massif, shooting us out on the other side and crossing into Italy shortly after. The excitement on Camille’s face after crossing into Italy is something we won’t soon forget. The first bus dropped people off at the trailhead while the second one made a quick stop at the grocery store to grab lunch for everyone, then met the first group and got ready to start our 5-day section of the world-famous Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB). The weather was cold and windy, overcast and threatening rain as we put our packs on and charged up the mountain to warm up. A few minutes down the trail, our French mountain guide, Hadrien (pronounced Adrian), asked the group if we were in shape from the Pyrenees and said that we could slow the pace down; the kids were charging up the mountains! The trail on the TMB is much more established than the rugged Pyrenees, and the kids sang their gratitude as we gained altitude towards the Italy/Switzerland border. This summer has been especially cold, and the snow has remained in areas that are usually sparse this time of year, creating the need for crampons (metal spikes that we attach to our boots for more grip on the snow). After climbing the steep trail to the start of the snow section, we put on our crampons and entered the clouds, walking in a complete whiteout as the wind roared and numbed our faces and hands. Hadrien is such a good guide that he could have led us over the pass with his eyes closed, and we were thankful that his pace kept us together in the clouds. The trail led us to a small marker made of stone on top of the snowy pass, with an “I” on one side and an “S” on the other, representing the exact point where the trail crosses the border into Switzerland. The group hung out and took some pictures at the marker while the wind continued to scream through the saddle. We started our descent into Switzerland, sometimes slipping on the snow and laughing it off until the snow disappeared and we continued our descent back on the trail. Chloe showed off her ‘sliding’ skills by traversing down the mountain with ease, thanks to growing up in the Utah mountains. We eventually made it to a small cheese factory where we enjoyed a much-deserved lunch and our first Swiss hot chocolate. The rest of the day was a relaxed stroll down a very established dirt road, crossing over multiple rivers and walking by dairy farms where cows rang their bells as we passed by. Hadrien introduced us to a new ritual of looking over the landscape, breathing in the fresh mountain air, taking in the sights and sounds, and trying to count exactly to a minute. Hadrien was so pleased that no one was under a minute; in his mind, it meant that we were enjoying the time and not wasting the experience. As leaders, it was great to have Hadrien remind everyone how special this opportunity is. The sky opened up and turned blue as we strolled into our first hotel on the TMB, L’edelweiss, a luxury stop in a quaint ski village, ending the day with 16k behind us. This chalet even had a sauna and an amazing balcony overlooking some incredible mountains. We were in heaven. Charlotte lived in Switzerland for a few months and introduced the group to ovomaltine, a crunchy chocolate spread only found in Switzerland. The girls were suspicious at first, but after one taste, they were hooked and covered in chocolate! La Fouly, Switzerland, isn’t very big, but all the kids explored the town and enjoyed snacks and a nap before a 3-course meal of vegetable soup, chicken with rice and ratatouille, and finally some ice cream!
We woke up early again the next morning to beat the afternoon thunderstorms that are common this time of year. Similar to Spain, the kids enjoyed the Swiss-style breakfast much more than the classic bread and butter that the French enjoy, piling their plates with cheese, salami, yogurt, cereal, and even taking advantage of the coffee machine that could make just about anything. Hadrien led us through a warmup after showing us the Edelweiss flower in a potting plant that naturally grows above 3000m in the mountains, about another 1400m higher from the hotel. Today was a much more relaxing stroll to Champex, just 14k away and fairly flat compared to yesterday, with only one uphill push in the last hour to reach the ski town that sat next to a lake filled with salmon and trout. Along the trek, Hadrien picked a flower and taught us the French version of ‘he loves me, he loves me not,’ which goes ‘je t’aime, pas du tout, un peu, beaucoup, passionnément, à la folie.’ In English, that translates to “I love you, not at all, a little, a lot, passionately, madly.” It’s so fun learning these little differences in such familiar games. Compared to yesterday, today was much warmer and the sky was clear, exaggerating the views of the overhanging granite mountains with interlaying glaciers. Gigi and Camille exclaimed that Switzerland was their favorite country we have been to yet due to the pretty mountains and tiny wood house villages. We arrived early again and enjoyed a lakefront patch of grass for an hour or so before walking to our hotel and checking in. We explored the small town and indulged in Swiss chocolate and ice cream before a fondue dinner and an early night to bed. These kids are really getting the full experience!
Another early morning for the same reason, this time with a threatening rainstorm which made the early departure a little more necessary. Hayden ran to the bakery next door before breakfast, picked up 6 loaves of freshly baked bread he and Corey reserved the night before, and made it back in time to enjoy another filling Swiss breakfast with everyone. All of the kids were packed and ready to go, and we hit the trail shortly after our sweet and savory breakfast. Today was the biggest elevation gain so far, 800m uphill and 1000m downhill, and the group pushed through the terrain to gasp at breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. All of the girls frolicked through a field during a photo shoot to try and get on the cover of the Moondance staff manual; great situations make for great photos! Our lunch spot was just after completing all of the uphill for the day, and everyone was happily eating the spread before continuing on and descending to Trient, Switzerland, where we would stay for the night. Upon arrival, Hadrien took us to a picturesque pink church in the center of this small village to enjoy the stained glass and murals that lined the inside before checking into our hotel for the evening. Pierson said that this was the coolest church he had ever seen and asked us to take pictures so that he could remember it forever. We arrived at our stay in the early afternoon, and all of the kids rushed to the sauna and luxurious showers before a well-deserved nap, getting woken up before dinner and running down to secure their spot in the dining room that overlooked the hillside we had descended only hours before. Dinner was a filling wildflower soup, salad, vegetable curry, and vanilla and strawberry ice cream in the design of the Switzerland flag. Hayden, Mia, Pierson, and Jack all got second helpings of the ice cream – easily the favorite course of the night. All of the kids exclaimed that Switzerland has been their favorite country so far due to the consistently good food and unique architecture. We ended our day with another moonup, this time in the dorm room the kids shared that overlooked the pink church and snow-capped peaks in the distance.
After a good night’s rest and another quality Swiss breakfast, we had our final full day of trekking, which had the biggest elevation gain and loss of the entire trip, 1000m up and 1200m down. The kids knew this going into the day, and we had another intentional warmup before hitting the trail and starting our ascent. The trail was not as steep as yesterday, but maintained the same angle through the climb until hitting another snow patch and reaching our high point for the day, the Swiss/French border! Hadrien asked Mia and Helen to set the pace for the entire uphill section, something that is very hard to do, and they crushed it, constantly checking behind them to make sure that the group remained together. On top of the pass was another hut where the kids bought sweet treats and enjoyed the first view of Mont Blanc, the 15,770-foot, glacier-covered mountain that people travel from all over the world to see, ski, trek around, and summit. The descent took us through a ski hill, and mountain bikers flew by as we made our way down to our last hostel on the TMB, the gnome-like Auberge La Bœrne. Trail hikes are something we aren’t quite ready to say goodbye to. Whether it’s Charlotte’s dance career or Chloe’s home rituals, passing the time by learning about your kids is one of our favorite parts of leading. The boys played cards with Hadrien in the tiny dining room with Jack destroying everyone, and the girls admired all of the flowers that surrounded our hostel. We ended our day with a filling dinner and a great moonup before catching some rest in preparation for the next chapter of this trip, Paris!
Our hike out the next day was short and sweet, descending into Chamonix and checking into our hotel before exploring the town and buying some much-deserved souvenirs. The time in town was a celebration; we dined, walked, and recounted our favorite memories from this past section, expressing the challenges and highlights from the kids’ favorite section of the trip.
This leaves us where we are now, about to train to Paris to celebrate this once-in-a-lifetime experience somewhere the kids can’t wait to explore. This trip has challenged each and every one of us in many ways, and Paris is the perfect way to cap off this journey. Not much longer before you get to see your kids!
Charlotte:
Hi Mom + Dad!! I love you so much!! Thank you so much for sending me on this trip. I miss you so much and hope that you’re having the best time!!
Pierson:
Be back soon, love yall
Jack:
Hi Mom and Dad! Thank you so much for sending me on this trip. I’m having a lot of fun and I’ll see you soon!
Gigi:
Hey, again!! We are finishing up our TMB section and heading to Paris soon! I have had such a awesome time. Thank you mom and dad so much for sending me on this trip!
Camille:
Hiiiii!! I’m so sad the trip is about to end but I miss y’all so much! Thank yall for giving me the opportunity to go on these trips every year! It means so much and I’m obsessed with the Tour de Mont Blanc. It’s gorgeous! Love y’all!
Chloe:
Hi mom + dad! We are on the tour de Mont Blanc right now and it is so much fun and really pretty. We go to Paris in a few days!!The weather is perfect. Thank you so much for sending me on this trip this year I am having such a great time. Miss and love you!
Helen:
Hey family again!! We are wrapping up and I’m so sad. I have had so so much fun and cannot thank y’all enough. Excited to tell y’all all about it!! See ya sooooooon
Mia:
Hi!! Having lots of fun! Thank you so much!
Happy Birthday Mom! See y’all so soon!
Much love and appreciation,
-Corey and Hayden
Hola Parents!
June 21, 2024
The last time we talked, we had just finished our seven-day Pyrenees trek, indulged in another filling burger dinner, and hunted down some crepes and ice cream for dessert before having our best game of ”look up, look down” yet in front of Église des Templiers, a beautiful stone church built in the 14th century. Alex bested Hayden in the final veggie off of the evening (you’ll have to ask your kids for details), while Gigi and Camille kept things interesting with a dance-off. We were able to stay in a different hotel (Le Regain) because another Moondance group had arrived in Luz ahead of their Pyrenees section; good for us because the new place sat higher on the hill and was complete with balconies that allowed us to overlook the quiet town. Van even noted that he has a totally new appreciation for Luz after spending a week in the mountains. After our best Moonup yet, we hit the hay in preparation for our travel day to L’escala, Spain, the next morning.
We arose bright and early and had another classic French breakfast, this time with the best bread, butter, and coffee of the trip so far. The hotel owner spoke very little English but understood that we had some hungry kids. She would put down a full bread basket and look back moments later to see crumbs remaining. She walked away giggling and cut up more bread and soft-boiled eggs for us until the kids slowed down, and we had to catch our bus, the same bus that brought the other Moondance group from Spain to Luz. Our driver, Jordi, helped us load all our bags onto the bus and drove off, playing classic hits while the kids roared into conversation and sang along until talk slowed and eyes became heavy. Halfway through the 6-hour drive, we stopped at a gas station for a break and a fill-up. Kids scoured the store for the things they craved or anything they couldn’t get back home and walked out, hands full, ready to finish the drive. When we came out of the store, the bus driver had opened the van’s hood, never a good sign. All of the kids piled in and started on lunch without thinking much of it. Hayden spoke Spanish with the driver and found out the battery had died and that we needed to push the van backward and out of the way of the fuel pumps. All hands on deck! The van was no match for our strong and capable kids, and we pushed the bus 50 feet backward while the driver steered and parked out of the way. It was then that the kids started to question what was going on, and Corey and Hayden let them in that the driver told the leaders that another bus would be here to pick us up in 3 hours, and we were there until then. None of the kids complained or bickered, rather immediately started to entertain themselves, starting games of “poison dart frog”, going into the gas station multiple times for more snacks, and finding a park right next to the gas station to picnic and listen to music on the speaker. The leader team was very thankful for their attitude during this unexpected turn of events. Bumps in the road are inevitable on trips and it is 100% easier to deal with these changes when there is a group as dynamic as this one. After about an hour, Mia looked up and asked, “did our bus just move?” In fact, it did, and Corey came running over, exclaiming that it started up by some miracle. Everyone piled into the bus, and we were back on the road to L’escala. We arrived and settled into our luxurious tents at the campground (Punta Mila) and Corey, Chloe, Camille and Jack cheffed up some delicious tacos completed with fresh guacamole, which Pierson prepared.
The next day was our beach day! This is brand new to the itinerary, and our group was one of the first to experience a full day dedicated to enjoying the beach just a 15-minute walk from the campground. We had an easy morning with a breakfast of freshly baked croissants, eggs, and bacon from the world-famous Basque Country. After applying sunscreen and filling our beach bags with everything the group would need for the day, we headed down the trail Hayden remembered finding from two years ago when leading this trip. Conversation boomed. Teeth shined from smiles in the Spanish sun. Kids hopped, skipped, and chuckled as we made our way closer to the cove we would spend the day at. We found a spot in the corner of the beach and set up camp. Everyone started out hacky sacking together and the girls took advantage of a lull in the game to sunbathe and swim in the ocean. The boys relentlessly juggled the hacky sack and soccer ball until, eventually, they joined the girls before lunch. Corey found a beachfront restaurant and got us a big table where everyone engulfed personal pizzas or burgers after a table full of local appetizers. It’s moments like these that we particularly love. Alex was hesitant to try prosciutto and melon, then admitted it was pretty darn good. Charlotte, Camille, and Jack tried mussels for the first time and loved them. Local, but new, foods are just the best and one of the leader team’s favorite parts of traveling. The rest of the afternoon was a repeat of the morning, and we ended our beach day around 5 pm, tan and hungry. The evening activity was iron chef, a cooking competition between two teams, usually done on domestic trips only, but because of this campsite, we were able to have access to two-burner stoves and a plethora of cookware. This is a special treat, and the kids immediately started planning their three courses to impress the leader team and ultimately win the competition. Hayden took group 1 to the grocery store around the corner and gave them 20 minutes and 80€; they had no problem acquiring all their necessary ingredients and came in under budget. Corey’s group had a similar outcome, only spending 0.50€ more than the other group.
Both groups started with a bruschetta appetizer, and group 2 won the round, aided by Alex’s hysterical and theatrical storytelling about the dish. The main course for both groups was a pasta dish, a shrimp and spaghetti for group 1, and a chicken rigatoni for group two. Group 1 took the victory for the main course due to Jack’s garlic butter sauce. Bonus points were awarded to Group 1 for their teamwork and positive vibes, and Group 2 was awarded bonus points for their humor in their presentation; it was all tied to going into the dessert. Group 2 presented a beautiful charcuterie board(Corey’s favorite), but the winner came from Group 1 with their enormous cookie tower and fresh fruit side platter, rounded out with Nutella fondue; it was too good to overlook. We cleaned up after and had an amazing Moonup, bringing the group closer and further cultivating the environment Corey and Hayden have been working towards.
The next day brought an unexpected surprise: our first day of sea kayaking was canceled due to storms in the area, which made it more dangerous to be on the water. No need to fear, though! The leader team came up with a plan that satisfied everyone. We started out by sleeping in until 10:45 am, something that will fuel us going into our challenging Tour du Mont Blanc section. The girls needed stuff from the pharmacy, Alex and Pierson had been craving a haircut the whole trip and they finally had the time to go (sorry moms). The unexpected chill day is rare within Moondance, and it is refreshing and rejuvenating for all. Our day was not over, though; we had a cooking class at a beachfront restaurant!
Chloe and Camille have been talking about tuna tartare since they arrived, and to their surprise, that was the first appetizer we made. Charlotte and Helen helped make the guacamole for that dish as well, and it was such a hit with the group. Van had a solo mission to make pesto for the salad, and he nailed it. All of the assistants at the restaurants tasted it and were impressed. Pierson and Alex mastered the very popular pan con tomate, a local favorite.
On the mains were Gigi, Mia and Jack. Gigi kept us laughing by vlogging her way through the preparation. Mia has gone from never eating fish to preparing a seafood dish with 3 different types of seafood. Jack showed off his skills by taking point on the dish entirely. It’s safe to say we’re sending home a few chefs!
One thing we also loved was how Helen jumped into conversation with the chef at the restaurant who was teaching us her grandmother’s recipes. They got to talking about the Catalan region that we’re in and its relationship with Spain. Hayden mentioned this interesting cultural sensitivity to the group earlier in the session, and it was great to see Helen learning about it firsthand.
After we got back from the cooking class we had a group soccer game on a small field we found near the campsite. Mia ultimately scored the game-winning goal and transitioned us into another heartwarming Moonup before a chilly night’s rest.
The day has finally come to sea kayak in the Mediterranean Sea! We awoke to a stellar breakfast cooked by Helen and Jack, who have become our permanent cook crew. Everyone inhaled the breakfast tacos before filling up water and heading to the front of the campsite to meet our taxi drivers. They shuttled us 45 minutes to the nearby town of Tamariu, where we launched straight from the beach and into the cerulean sea after a safety briefing. The rust-colored, jagged coastline towers over the sea and earns the name Costa Brava, which stands for “rough coast,” and we instantly saw why. The swells were surprisingly large and we paddled over 5 foot waves and ducked into bays to escape the rough sea and to navigate through narrow features between rock canyons created from erosion over the years. We paddled into the largest cave in Costa Brava, the Cova d’en Gispert (“the cave of hell”), which faded to black the further we went, making our guides bring out flashlights to guide us into a narrow section that seemingly went on forever. Charlotte mastered sea kayaking and we couldn’t believe it was her first time. And FINALLY, Helen got to experience sea kayaking on a Moondance trip after that section was canceled for her previous 2 summers. Van led our group for the entire day, complete with singing the Pirates of the Caribbean theme song. And Camille and Gigi both giggled through their ‘wet exits’ when their kayaks tipped over. We pushed on and made it to a rocky beach in a cove where we rested and had our packed lunch. The boys played silly beach games and the girls sun tanned, some people swam in the cool saltwater and others enjoyed music on the speaker. The kayak back was a little easier because the waves allowed us to surf a little, easing everyone’s tired shoulders and arms and creating more space for conversations between boats. In no time we were back in Timariu and caught our taxis to our campground right away. Conversations erupted and carried us all the way back to L’escala; it’s so entertaining as a leader to sit back and listen to these kids hang out with each other, they met each other less than 2 weeks ago, yet they converse as if they are lifetime friends. Corey ran to the grocery store for dinner supplies with the guys while Hayden hung out at the pool with the girls and wrote this trip update. Everyone was in high spirits going into dinner, and the Mediterranean meal that Corey, Helen, Mia, and Jack only made people happier.
That leaves us where we are now, with a big travel day tomorrow to Chamonix and a five-day section of the Tour du Mont Blanc before well-deserved time in Paris. So here’s to the adventure we’ve had already and the unknown ahead. Adios, parents!
Much love and appreciation,
-Corey and Hayden
Bonjour and Hola parents!
June 18, 2024
After your adventurous kids let you know that they made it to Paris safely, we hopped on the metro and arrived at the Montparnasse train station an hour later. We had a little “layover” in the station and hunted down our first slice of pizza and our first bites of sandwiches before catching our 6-hour TGV train to Lourdes, the gateway of the Pyrenees. A mountain man named Sasha and our guide, Matthéo, greeted us and gave us a ride to our accommodation for the night in Luz, just a 30-minute drive down the valley through rural French countryside. Our main point of contact for the Pyrenees section, Sian (pronounced Shawn),welcomed us to her hotel (Hotel des Cimes) upon arrival around 8 pm, showed us our rooms, and left us for the night. It was challenging for us to find a restaurant that was open late on a Sunday night in a small, secluded town, but to our luck, a kind French woman offered to make us individual charcuterie boards after we wandered by her establishment a couple of times, obviously tired and hungry. Nothing was left on the wooden plates and the kids were happy. During our first Moonup, we asked the group why they were here and the common themes were to challenge themselves, to experience new things, or that their previous Moondance experiences left them wanting another. Either way, we knew that this group was special and looked forward to the section ahead.
The next day, our first leaders of the day (LODs), Jack and Gigi, led us through the local morning market that popped up just outside the hotel entrance to scout out what we may want for lunch. They then navigated the group by paper map to Chateau Sainte-Marie, a small castle overlooking present day Luz that was built sometime between 1200 and 1300 AD. Our LODs then shopped around the market for local sandwich supplies, practicing their French along the way, and presented the spread to the group that was eagerly awaiting to indulge in the French cuisine. The leader team taught afternoon lessons in preparation for the section ahead of us and the group did their “duffle shuffle”, taking things they didn’t need for the 7 day trek out of their backpack and leaving them in their daypack at Sian’s house. We were invited by a few locals to join in a game of football (aka soccer) and everyone was at first very humble when describing their abilities. Little did we know we had so many incredible football stars in our midst. Chloe, Van, and Pierson blew us away with their constant effort and skill, but it was Helen who scored the most goals and was constantly switching teams to keep the score even. After a few hours of football, we had an American classic for dinner, burgers! Everyone got their fill of home and went to bed full and ready to enter the mountains the next morning.
After another quality breakfast at the hotel, Matthéo, Sasha, and Sian shuttled us up a narrow and windy mountain road to our first Refugio, Saugué, perfectly placed on a plateau halfway between the start of the foothills and the crest of the Pyrenees where the Spanish/French border lies. Today was foggy, hiding the canyon and rugged mountains that surround the Refugio. We went on a day hike to prepare for the bigger days ahead and the fog cleared just enough to get our first glimpse of the proper Pyrenees; snow still hung high in the mountains, cows scattered throughout the plateau echoing their cowbells, and the kids were in awe of what lay before them. We quickly learned that this part of Europe is experiencing a cold summer and warmed everyone up with some hot chocolate from the Refugio, one of the many comforts of these buildings scattered throughout the mountains. A few games of mafia with Gigi at the helm was all it took to burn up the remaining time before a large serving of spaghetti bolognese was served for dinner. Alex has mastered the ‘blue steel’ look (a Zoolander reference for anyone wondering) and is constantly cackling with laughter. After a wet and cold day it’s laughing like this that reminds us all of why we’re here.
The fog thickened overnight and the cold bit harder the next morning; we awoke to a complete white out and sat down to our first classic French breakfast: bread, butter, jam, juice, and coffee. After getting our fill, Matthéo guided us through the fog and down to Gavarnie, a small town with an amazing view of the Cirque de Gavarnie, a glacier carved bowl with three tiers and countless waterfalls, including one that falls over 400 meters. The fog lifted the longer we hiked, but hung high in the mountain tops the rest of the day. Bearded vultures soared above. Marmots called out warning others about the low flying predators. We saw our first crystal clear river that turned more blue the deeper the cascading pools were, contrasting the green grass and slate colored rocky mountains around us. A ping pong table was waiting for us upon arrival at our hostel, Oxygene Gavarnie, and the kids jumped at the chance to show their skills. Pierson took gold in the group tournament, ultimately beating Hayden in the final, but it was Charlotte who awed us by winning the girl’s heat and gave Hayden a run for his money in the semis. Later that afternoon we hiked to the base of the cirque, passing by horses, glacier melt streams, and the first ski lift in the world, arriving at Hôtel du Cirque et de la Cascade, where Victor Hugo famously described the cirque as “the colosseum of the gods.” The fog still hung high and the top of the cirque was still elusive, but we admired the cathedral in the light rain and cold weather before eating a trout dinner our hostel owner, Christophe, made us. This dish is notorious in Gavarnie and is Christophe’s specialty. With accolades that high, even Mia was tempted to try fish for the first time!
We awoke to the same cold mountain air, this time a blue bird sky that allowed us to see the cirque in its full glory. Kids clung to the window before breakfast, gasping at the scene in its entirety, fogging the window and joyously giggling at the life they are living. Another classic French breakfast fueled us before our biggest day yet, a 20k bruiser up and over a pass and into Spain. We ascended the west side of the valley and gawked at the crystal clear view, stopping for lunch behind a house sized boulder to get out of the wind. Camille, Chloe and Gigi wasted no time taking jumping and cartwheel pictures with the glorious cirque as the backdrop; pictures we hope they cherish forever. Chloe’s smile was as wide as the landscape. We love watching your kids fall in love with the outdoors.
It’s pretty crazy how quickly things shift when you cross the boarder, bonjour immediately becomes hola, the crowd shifts from French to Spanish, and the structure of the mountains is noticeably different. The group experienced all of these as we passed over our first border crossing by foot on a 1000+ year old trail, the Camino de Santiago! The trail on the other side was steep and we descended deeper into Spain and arrived at our first Spanish Refugio, Bujaruelo, positioned just feet away from a Gatorade blue river with a cobblestone bridge to complete the scene. All of the girls braved the cold water and jumped numerous times to wakeup and recover from a long day in the mountains while the guys indulged in snacks and soft drinks they bought from the Refugio. Charlotte wins for most notable squeal as she jumped into the icy water and exclaimed how alive it made her feel. Everyone joined in a stretching circle and eagerly awaited dinner after well deserved showers. Carbonara for the first course and bratwurst with potatoes for our second, followed by a yogurt and Graham cracker parfait to wash it all down. That was us well fed and ready for bed!
The kids became fond of the Spanish style breakfast, the same bread and butter, but this time with bacon, salami, cereal, muffins, hard boiled eggs, and a state of the art toaster. Everyone loaded up, but the need wasn’t as strong for today was a shorter hike along the same river we stayed by the night before, descending the valley to a quaint cobblestone town named Torla. The group could not help themselves but run down to the river to chill their legs in the river and rest next to the soothing sound of whitewater. The mystical nature of this town rubbed off on the group and everyone skipped down the street and into a local restaurant where we had a three course meal consisting of fresh food gathered from the surrounding valleys. Hayden introduce da tricky riddle to the group which stumped us entirely. Ultimately Mia was the only student who figured it out. No one else has managed it yet! LODs Charlotte and Alex led the group in the coolest Moonup setting imaginable, atop Torla Church overlooking Ordesa Valley.
The next morning we woke up early and caught a van transfer after another filling Spanish breakfast to the parking lot of Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park. Today was a day hike and we ascended the canyon along another crystal clear river with cascading water falls, ultimately arriving at the end of the glacier carved valley. Camille, Jack and Chloe blazed the trail with Matthéo, inspiring the group to keep up the pace; a crucial leadership moment after 2long days of hiking. The canyon walls towered over us, the cows mooed in the valley, and the roar of the final waterfall filled the open air to give us a 10 out of 10 lunch spot. After a short siesta, we descended back the way we came and enjoyed the view in the opposite direction before entering the forest and arriving back at the parking lot mid afternoon. Another van transfer took us back to the magical town of Torla where Corey and Hayden surprised the group with an opportunity to watch the Spain vs. Croatia Euro Cup soccer game. Spain scored 3 goals in the first half and what a cool experience to watch that with local fans! The local restaurant provided us another 3 course meal with Fanta and Coke, filling our bellies and putting a smile on everyone’s face. It’s such a joy as a leader looking down a table and seeing kids laughing with people they met just days prior. Helen even spat out an entire gulp of water, laughing uncontrollably at a joke Van told. After an incredible dessert we hit the hay early to get ready for another big day the next morning.
Up to this point, the group had been asking for a speaker to listen to music but Hayden and Corey had been saving it for a special day; today was that day! The route was the same as our big 20k day, but in reverse. Corey turned on the speaker and everyone’s faces lit up and song requests were instantly shouted out. We had risen early to get most of our uphill section done in the cool, Spanish shade and we ascended the rocky trail as the sun started to illuminate the valley we were getting further away from. The music proved to be a motivational factor and the group crushed the steepest part of the day with ease. Van had been battling an achilles issue but the music and his sheer determination to get back to France had him cruising in the front of the pack all day. We’re so inspired by his ability to overcome adversity – who knew ankles were so important for hiking! We rested on a plateau for a snack and overlooked the trail we had just done. Our Refugio was out of sight, hidden deep in the valley floor, the sound of the roaring river had faded, and the sweat drenched shirts dried in the soon to be French sun. A quick break was exactly what we needed to prepare for the unexpected turn to come. Our guide, Matthéo, decided to take a different trail over the pass/border and it was blocked by a snow patch that is usually not there this time of year; but this summer has proved to be unusually cold. Matthéo and Hayden worked together to find a different route down the mountain that required a short pass over a snow field. Hayden built out a trail in the snow and he and Matthéo guided the group 2 by 2 through the crux. Everyone was focused and attentive and earned their mountaineer badge in that moment, gaining respect from a seasoned French mountaineer. Gigi, Mia, and Pierson led the charge for the group, both with their positivity and expert demonstrations down the hill. We descended the rest of the way and celebrated a job well done with another filling picnic with the mountainside we had just descended towering over us. Though the group had already had a full day, it was not over yet; we still had to descend a few more hours back to Gavarnie. The rest of the hike flew by and we were back at the same hostel we stayed at a few nights ago. Corey surprised the group with ice cream immediately upon arrival and the kids battled to secure their spot in line, they could not wait to get their sugar fix. Jack hit the jackpot (pun intended) when he knew ‘speculoos’ flavored ice cream was Biscoff flavor and he quickly became the envy of the group for best ordered cone. We ended our day with another multiple course meal and went to bed early to rest from our biggest day in the mountains so far.
A couple extra hours of sleep in the morning was well deserved before another classic French breakfast, this time with some peanut butter for the bread! Our day was very flexible and the group decided to do a short hike to a river and have a chill picnic complete with music and games. Camille and Alex led on the aux cord while Van and Helen caught some zzz’s in the sun. It was one of those dream days you wish would never end. We hiked back into Gavarnie and those who craved got another round of ice cream before a quick shuttle back to Luz, just 30minutes down the windy valley road. We finished our day with a proper restaurant meal and recounted our favorite memories from the past week of trekking through the French and Spanish mountains.
We want to take this opportunity to say how proud we are of every kid on this trip. The bravery, courage, perseverance, and inclusiveness that they have displayed over the past week is inspirational to us leaders and we are grateful to have them on our trip. It has only been a week, yet we feel that we have known everyone for a lifetime. We sincerely thank you for sending them on this Moondance Adventure because we believe that experiences like this have a profound impact on young people’s character, we know that to be true for the leader team. Soau rev oir / adios for now, see you later! Much love and appreciation,
-Corey and Hayden
Shoutouts:
Chloe: Hi mom + dad! I’m having the best time hiking and all the views are amazing. I love my group and my leaders. Happy Father’s Day dad and hopefully you guys had fun in LA! Miss you all!
Charlotte: Hii!! Happy Father’s Day I miss you, hope you had the best day! Can’t wait to see you
Gigi: Hey!! I miss yall and I’m having so much fun! Happy late Father’s Day dad! We have beenhiking a lot (definitely should’ve broken in my boots) and it is so pretty!
Mia: Hi!! I’m having so much fun! Hope yall had fun in Italy! Happy late Father’s Day!
Jack: Hi mom and dad! I’m having so much fun! We just finished hiking in the Pyrenees and we leave for Spain tomorrow. Hope you guys had fun at the wedding and I’m excited to see you soon!
Helen: Heyyy fam, miss yall!! I’m having so much fun and love my group & leaders. We just finished our 7 day trek in the Pyrenees, headed to the beach in Spain tomorrow for 3 days, and then Tour Du Mont Blanc after. Never leaving!!!
Camille: Hiiii fam!!! I miss all of yall so much but I’m having the best time here! It’s so gorgeous and my group is so fun! I’m sad to miss Dads bday and Father’s Day but have so much fun! Sayhi to the kitties for me and the rest of the family + my friends! Love you all and see you soon!
Pierson: Happy Father’s Day Dad I hope Big Rock was great for you and Mom. Hope y’all are having a great time in Panama. I’m having a fun time here, it’s a lot of hiking. Miss you and I’ll see you all soon.
Van: Miss yall and see you all soon. Cannot wait to see yall! Happy Father’s Day Dad! Got some injury hopefully it goes away. Can’t wait to get home to the beach. I miss it like crazy, (I’m not a hiker). Also had to get new shoes. Mine broke.
Alex: Happy Father’s Day having a lot of fun cannot wait to see you. Chilling in the French Alpsright now no problem though.
Safe Arrival in Lourdes!
June 9, 2024
Hello Chamonix Families!
We heard from our leaders this afternoon that the group has arrived in Lourdes! They are awaiting Charlotte’s arrival and are excited to start trekking. The trip is off to a great start, and we cannot wait to hear more stories from their adventure.
Please remember our leaders and students will be unplugged during their trips, but we will be posting trip updates throughout the next week! This will allow you to follow along with the trip. You can also follow us on Instagram, @moondanceadventures, to see more of what we are up to!
-Moondance HQ
