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Northern Lights Log (2008-06-18 -> 2008-07-07)
Leaders: Emmie Martinat and Wilson Robinson
Students: Libby Farrell, Albert Ford, Peter Gruys, Wilson Hallett, Will Hester, Alexader Kontomitras, Newton Law, Liz Olson, Hunter Rich, Corey Robertson, Emma Rogers, Bennett Smith
We are backpacking in the Talkeetna Range and set to jump on the Chickaloon River this
Trip Update 6-30-08
After playing a few rounds of airport Frisbee and eating a plethora of pizza, we departed for that night's campsite, learned to set up our tents upon arrival, and received our first taste of Alaska's midnight sun. Anxiously awaiting Libby's arrival, our final group member, we awoke early the next morning. Corey and Peter tested their cooking skills with back country pancakes and made our first breakfast of the trip, allowing us to stay energized for the day ahead. Upon finishing mixing together some delicious GORP, our group was finally complete and we began our drive to Chickaloon to wrap up the preparation for our backpacking adventure.
We awoke early the next morning, eager to begin backpacking. On the trail by noon, within five minutes of our first steps we stumbled upon a moose and her two calves grazing across the stream we were following. Hunter took the initiative of leading the group through the first day of backpacking. Doing a wonderful job of staying on track while bushwhacking through the Alaskan terrain, he led us to our first campsite, a beautiful lake nestled between two mountains. As the first leaders of the day, Corey and Newton did a phenomenal job and set a positive tone for the rest of the trip. That night, amidst two rivers that lined the base of two mountains, young Wilson made some scrumptious quesadillas (with the help of Will, AK, and Albert) that quickly became one of the favorite meals and enabled us to persevere through our next day of backpacking.
The following morning we soon realized that we had only received a tiny taste of what we would have to conquer in the upcoming days. Hiking through rain, with the proper gear of course, we began what would become one of our longest days of backpacking. Keeping group morale high, Libby and Albert led us through diverse terrain, knee-deep river crossings and some intense bushwhacking, we arrived at a beautiful peak surrounded lake. Amidst the hardships of long miles and undesirable weather, our group did wonderfully and ended on a positive note. As Bennett said at the close of our day standing on the boulders above the lake, "I don't know why, but for some reason, I am really happy right now." Needless to say, the kids finished strong.
Our bellies full of cheesy hash browns and a good night's rest, we set off to conquer our next difficult day, Liz and young Wilson leading the way. Glimpses of morning sunshine soon became blurred by the blustering snow we encountered as we approached that day's challenge: hiking up and over a 6000 foot pass. Snow up to our waist, little visibility in conjunction with incredibly difficult terrain, without wise Wilson's navigation skills, Emmie's remarkable ability to point out the obvious weather conditions and the kids' fearless dedication, we would never have made it over the pass and away from the snowstorm. Under unfavorable circumstances, our group rose to the occasion and successfully completed one of the most challenging days in the history of backpacking. Their strength throughout was absolutely amazing.
The weather finally turned in our favor the following day and stayed for the remainder of the backpacking section. We decided to reward our hard work by having pasta, rather than oatmeal, for breakfast that morning. Emma and Will led our first entirely sunny day of backpacking. Determining whether to continue down the river, cross the river, or climb a mountain, Will helped wise Wilson scout out the best method and eventually chose the latter. The views atop the peak were gorgeous and much needed after the previous day of hiking. AK ended our day with an amazing meal of pesto pasta with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Hunter and Peter led the next day and blazed the trail through waist high bushes and lush "jungles", guiding us to our impeccably flat campsite on our second to last night of backpacking. Blisters abound (Liz revealing one of the largest known to man, yet remaining in the front all the while and never once hinting that she was in pain), the group did an incredible job and finished the day strong. Following the nicely paved ATV trail all the way out of the back country the next day, we completed our backpacking section and were ready for the next activity of whitewater rafting.
Meeting our NOVA guides the following morning, we rafted the Matanuska River hitting four miles of glacial whitewater. Both Emma and Corey tried their hand at paddling the gear boat while the majority of the boys, following Newton's lead, submerged themselves in the thirty degree water and emerging with enormous smiles on their faces. Demolishing the lunch provided by the guides, our group finished the day well-fed and content and ended the next day of rafting ready for our next adventure... after each had taken a warm shower.
Wise Wilson and I are so proud of our entire group. Enduring incredibly difficult days, remaining in good spirits throughout, and exceeding all expectations, our group has been amazing and accomplished more than anyone can believe. We couldn't have asked for a better group! Leaving bright and early tomorrow morning for our last section of sea kayaking, we can't wait to get on the water and see the Harriman Fjord in the land of the midnight sun. Until then...
Final Update 7/8/08
After completing a rigorous ten days of backpacking and whitewater rafting, sea kayaking was the perfect way to conclude our adventures in Alaska. Both relaxing and incredibly gorgeous, the group thoroughly enjoyed our last section of the trip.
After meeting with our outfitters, Alaska Sea Kayakers, and getting all of our gear for the next couple of days, we finished our own preparation, anxiously waiting the next morning. Clearly having paid our dues during backpacking, we were blessed with perfect weather the first day of sea kayaking. Our guide, Bjorn, led us to our first lunch spot Emerald Cove, where we refueled with PB & J’s while being mesmerized by the emerald hue of the water. Albert entertained us all with his hilarious German accent, inspired by our guide’s name. Filled with breathtaking views of the mountains and calm water, our 13 mile day flew by. Liz, Will, and AK ended the day wonderfully with a hearty meal of macaroni and cheese with sautéed sausage and onions, while they braved the sudden influx of “man eating bugs.”
Accomplishing our goal of being on the water by 8:00 am, we quickly made our way far from the bugs and began our next absolutely perfect weather day of sea kayaking. Getting the hang of paddling, we cruised through our next day of ten miles. After arriving at our campsite, Hobo Bay, at 2:00 pm, we were left with the afternoon to relax and enjoy the pleasant water. Peter perfected his rock skipping abilities; Corey paddled an extra 40 minutes with Bjorn to retrieve fresh water, while the remainder of the group basked in the sun napping or reading, enjoying the sun’s inviting warmth. The tide went down around dinner time, enabling us to walk out on an island to prepare and eat dinner. Young Wilson recruited Emma and Bennett to help out with his now famous quesadillas. Like an expert chief, Emma sliced and diced the onions and sausage to ensure that everyone would receive some. We all went to bed happily content after yet another perfect Moondance day.
The next morning we woke up early again and were on the water paddling by 8:00 am. Libby was frequently instrumental in the morning wakeup process, always quick out of bed and ready to help load the boats into the water. The weather in the morning was somewhat foreboding but majestic as the sky was scattered with cumulostratus clouds.
Nevertheless, we were not perturbed having just completed such an excellent day. We paddled 8 miles to Harriman Fjord. By this point in the trip, we were traveling with ease through the water, being more accustomed to the ins and outs of our boats. We saw many seals as we approached out first views of the tidewater glaciers. Will and young Wilson led the final surge to our campsite, 30 Mile Beach, just as the rain began to fall. As we were hurrying to get out of our boats, Bennett got a little ahead of himself and did a face plant into shallow water.
Being a resilient Moondancer, he popped right up without a complaint, miraculously staying somewhat dry. Once we were all on the shore, we were lucky to discover that the outfitters had conveniently assembled a temporary rain shelter that, more importantly, shielded us from the ferocious bugs. Beneath the shelter, Corey, Peter, and Albert cooked a crowd favorite dinner, pesto pasta. We all went to bed a little wet, but with great anticipation of the following day.
The next day being the 4th of July, we decided to sleep in and enjoy the anniversary of our country from the far reaches of the 49th state. With wonderful weather, we woke up at a leisurely pace to enjoy pancakes made by the skillet master, Newton. We packed a lunch and paddled up Harriman Fjord for what would be the pinnacle of the sea kayaking section. We kayaked with watchful eyes through “minefields” of icebergs. The bergs were beautifully shaped into in floating weightlessly among us. Our lunch destination was Black Sand Beach, where we perched ourselves on a rock to observe the awesome power of ancient glaciers. Coxe Glacier was the closest to our lunch rock and entertained us throughout the afternoon as huge chunks of ice the size of 50 story buildings crashed into the water below. Meanwhile, crafty Hunter befriended a pair of marmots and attempted to converse with them in their native tongue. After sitting on Black Sand Beach for 3 hours, we got in our kayaks and followed sea otters back to our campsite at 30 Mile Beach. That night the skillet master, Newton, with the help of the sauce queen, Libby, and the marmot-tamer, Hunter, prepared arguably the best dinner of the trip: pizza. Everyone was thoroughly pleased with dinner. After dinner, the cook crew along with Emmie and Wilson pulled a fast one on the group, surprising everyone with backcountry brownies.
Needless to say, there were many volunteers to clear the skillet. For Moonup, we had an engaging discussion of why we are proud to be Americans. It was a perfect 4th of July under every circumstance.
T
he final morning of sea kayaking we woke up early in order to meet the charter boat by high noon. With our paddling skills fine-tuned, we arrived at the pick-up location 2 hours early. Ironically, however, as we got out of our boats, we were instantly attacked by the worst swarm of bugs yet. Equipped with bug nets and munching on the trip’s remaining food, we stuck it out until the boat arrived. Once we were back in Whittier, we helped Alaska Sea Kayakers organize the kayaking equipment. Then, planes, trains, and automobiles (minus the planes) shuttled us back to Anchorage to stay at our final campground, one equipped with hot showers and indoor plumbing. It was the Ritz Carlton of the backcountry.
We woke up for our final day under the Alaskan sun, eager to accomplish our final tasks so that we could all later enjoy the last of each other’s company. Tootsie Pops in hand (and pockets), we all pitched in to help clean the cooking equipment and tents. When everything was spick and span, we all walked towards downtown Anchorage to explore the city for a few hours. Once the afternoon came to an end, we were shuttled to the Moose’s Tooth Lodge for our final banquet. We devoured a smorgasbord of delicious pizzas while recollecting on all the memories from the previous three weeks, and what an amazing three weeks it was. From backpacking the Talkeetnas, rafting the Matanuska, and sea kayaking the Prince William Sound, each individual conquered the Alaskan wilderness, all the while learning more about themselves and the group.
We had an incredible trip and are going to miss each and every one of you. You all did an unbelievable job, conquered Alaska without letting it conquer you, and forged eternal friendships. We couldn’t have asked for a better group and will miss you all dearly. Keep in touch!
Wilson and Emmie
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