| Costa Rica Venture log (2005-06-21 -> 2005-07-11)
Leaders: Jay Kenney, Laura Musser and Liz Howell
Students: Tyler Allgood, Lacey Baccich, Kirk Brooks, Charlie Coleman, Amos Eno, Katie Kohn, Chauncey Leggett, Libba Link, Francis Long, Lindsay Maxwell, Caroline Palmer, Anders Samuelson, Everette Thorby
Friday, June 24
In Cost Rica, one of the locals favorite sayings is pura vida. it means pure life. It is a perfect description of our time here so far.
Day 1 started at the San Jose airport as all 13 kids arrived safely and on time. A bus drove us to our hostel and after checking into our dorm'style rooms, we spent the rest of the day getting to know each other better. Immediately co-leaders, Laura, Liz, and Jay knew that this group was destined to shine. This was confirmed when Lacey, Caroline, and Tyler fixed our first delicious stir fry dinner.
The group slept off their jet lag the next day and Charlie, Chauncey, and Lindsay got us going with a tasty breakfast. Charlie's experience as a Saturday morning pancake chef came in handy and everybody had compliments for the chefs. The group spent the rest of the morning learning and or reviewing important Spanish phrases. The kids who had studied Spanish helped the ones who hadn't and together they came up with a great list of important phrases and expressions that will surely come in handy. They'll be jive'talking with the locals in no time.
After the lesson, the group embarked upon a photo scavenger hunt in San Jose. A picture of the biggest tourist....no problem. A photo of the ugliest dog....simple. A shot of a Costa Rican flag......right away. Caroline and Libba took control early and led the savvy group into an urban safari. They proved that we're no sappy tourists, we're accomplished travelers. Once the scavenger hunt concluded, the group returned to the hostel for a snack, a nap, and a whole bunch of socializing. After a great fajita dinner, the group learned two important lessons. 1. How to stay warm and dry. 2. How to pack a backpack. Anders immediately showed his knack for layering which is surely a product of his previous experience in the backcountry. Amos led the way with packing a pack. He streamlined all his gear and he was the quickest and most efficient packer.
Day 3 began when a bus picked us up to take us on a canopy tour of the rainforest. We drove approximately 2 hours north of San Jose, strapped on harneses and caribeaners, and hiked into the Valle Escondido for a day of zip'lining in the treetops. The setup was unlike anything we had ever seen before. 12 platforms were built high among the treetops and long metal cables connected one to the other. One at a time, each Moondancer hooked his or her pulley to the cable and zoomed from tree to tree Tarzan style. Some of the lines were 'only' 100 yards long and another one was a half mile. Needless to say, we had a blast. The highlight of the zipping was when Libba came in short and one of our guides had to go out and pull her in the rest of the way. In addition, throughout the day, Kirk kept us entertained with his antics and funny comments.
There could not be a better group participating in a better Moondance adventure. Everette did a great job serving as a quiet leader, using her previous Moondance experience to set the example for others to follow. Katie continues to have a smile on her face which helps us to keep the spirits high. And then there's Francis. In addition to helping Kirk in the comic relief department, his impeccable Louisiana drawl is helping everyone relearn English while they also brush up on their Spanish.
And so, here we are back in the hostel fat, happy, and ready for our next adventure. Our local tico guide Freddy Fonseca, in addition to having the best name in the outdoor industry, is ready to lead us into the Costa Rican jungle. Tomorrow we embark upon our 6 day hiking trip. We will stay with local families along the way, help them with their chores and eat the great local cuisine they provide for us. Everyone in our group is excited. Unfortunately for our readers, but fortunate for us, we will be incomunicado for the next week. Until then, don't be too jealous that you're not with us. PURA VIDA!!!!!
Thursday, June 30, 2005
...and we´re out of the jungle, with stories of new cultural experiences and myriad bug bites to show for it. The past week has been unlike anything any of us has ever experienced. From cutting the head off of a chicken, to planting trees in the rainforest, to meditating in a Costa Rican sweat lodge, to learning what it is like to live under constant rainfall: these past seven days will be etched into our memories forever.
We started Day 4 by hopping on a bus and riding several hours southwest of San Jose. We ate a quick roadside lunch, made last minute adjustments to our backpacks, threw them on our backs, and began our trek into the Costa Rican jungle. Along the way, we took in some spectacular views of the Rio Blanco (White River) slicing through the rainforest. The first day was mostly uphill, and even though it was slow going, everyone seemed to find their hiking groove. Lacey was particularly impressive on the first day. Despite her inexperience and petite size, she carried herself and heavy pack up the mountain like a Himalayan sherpa. The leaders were indeed proud of her hard work. Of course, along the way it began to rain, and it seemed not to stop for the next six days. However, the rain was a blessing because it cooled everyone off and made us realize that it is better to be soaking wet with rainwater than with sweat.
After a four hour hike, we reached our first home stay. It was a beautiful little cabana tucked neatly beside the Rio Blanco in the corner of a small valley. We never knew that so many different shades of green could coexist right beside each other. It was the perfect way to be exposed to the rainforest. The host family cooked us an amazing meal of rice and beans. Francis couldn´t get enough of it, and went back for several helpings. Luckily for him, we would be eating rice and beans for the next five days. With full bellies and satisfied souls, we set up our sleeping bags on the front porch of the house and let the sounds of chirping crickets and rushing rivers serenade us to sleep. You couldn´t imagine a more peaceful setting.
We awoke early the next day and embarked upon our most difficult hike of the trek. The entire morning was an uphill climb over an approximately 6,000 foot ridge. In addition to the steepness of the trail, the Costa Rican humidity had its way with everyone. Luckily, we were well hydrated and the only problem came when we realized how bad everyone stunk from sweating so much. At midday, we reached the top and were literally standing in a cloud. The clouds in the rainforest float in like puffs of smoke, and we got to see what it was like to be ensconced by one of them. With the arrival of the clouds, the temperature dropped a good ten degrees and cooled us off considerably. However, with Costa Rican clouds come Costa Rican rain. Soon, we were drenched yet again. The descent into the next valley was as adventurous of a trek as any of us had ever seen. To say that it was muddy was like calling the ocean a small pond. Progressing down the steep, muddy trail resembled skiing more than hiking. Everyone slipped and slid all over the place, and not one of us escaped without wiping out considerably. Lindsay led the way with her spills and showed the rest of us that falling can resemble dancing if you do it with enough grace.
With the humid morning ascent and the sloppy afternoon descent, everyone was more than ready to get to Freddy´s house. It was indeed a challenging day, and it took nearly all our energy just to make it to the destination on our own two feet. However, once we arrived at Freddy´s house, we were treated to a cultural experience that was second to none. For the next 4 days, we participated in a variety of activities that entertained us, educated us, and caused us to reflect on our identities as Americans, travelers, and human beings. As for entertainment, we used harnesses and belay devices to climb a tall, vine covered tree. Charlie was the first one to ascend, and he did it with such skill and speed that he made the rest of us look like beginners by comparison. Another day, we rapelled a waterfall. It was great fun, and Everette again demonstrated her leadership skills by showing us the proper way to safely descend the cascade.
Although the physical activities were great, the highlight of our stay at Freddy´s house was the cultural experiences in which we indulged. One afternoon, we selected a chicken from the coop to eat for dinner that night. Freddy led us through the selection process and had us all participate in a small ceremony where we asked the bird for permission to kill it. After the small ritual, Charlie held it down, Kirk pulled its neck onto the block, and Chauncey chopped the head off. By the end of it, not many kids stuck around to see the process reach its conclusion. However, everyone, whether they watched or not, understood the importance of knowing where our meat comes from.
One day we spent an entire morning planting trees in the rainforest as part of our Moondance service project. Anders demonstrated great leadership during this event, because even though he felt a little sick to his stomach, he would not leave us until he had planted all three of his trees. Luckily for us, he stopped feeling sick later that day and was able to reflect upon the meaning of his experience.
Another great cultural experience was spending time in the Costa Rican sweat lodge. Before we entered, we were instructed to drink a small glass of herbal tea to purify our insides. Then, we were told to submerge ourselves in the river to purify our outsides. Finally, we entered the small stone sauna. Some kids thought it was another unique experience. Others took to heart the purpose and focused on the meditation and cleansing process. Katie really took it seriously, and after spending close to an hour either in the lodge or in the river, she declared that it was one of the coolest things she´s ever done.
The final cultural aspect of Freddy´s house that was so special was interacting with his family, especially his parents Rosa and Alvino. Although they spoke no English, our kids got to know them while they prepared all our meals and provided a wonderful place to stay. Tyler loved getting to know their 5 year old boy Uda. The two of them were like peas in a pod by the end of our stay there.
The final day of our adventure in the backpacking section was our exit. We hiked another several miles through the thickest mud any of us had ever seen, but it was a relatively uneventful day. Amos continued to demonstrate how committed he is to being a backcountry expert. He carried a heavy pack and did anything the group needed him to do. He was truly a leader.
We are now in Puerto Jimenez, a small coastal town in the the southwest part of the country. It was a brutal bus ride here, complete with cramped bus quarters and a pot hole pocked road that stretched for miles, and miles...and miles. Luckily, our spirits were kept up by Caroline and Libba´s positive energy. Everyone gravitates toward them, and they are able to define the mood of the trip with their happy outlook on life. It´s been great so far, and we look forward to the next leg of the adventure. Over the next week, we will sea kayak along the Pacific Coast and spend a fair amount of time surfing Costa Rica´s legendary swells. Until next time, PURA VIDA.
July 4, 2005
We´re tired but ecstatic. Happy Fourth of July! The past four days have been amazing in every sense of the word. Since we last checked in with you, we´ve circumnavigated the Golfo Dulce (Sweet Gulf)in the southwestern corner of Costa Rica. After a relaxing stay at a Puerto Jimenez campsite, our kayak guide Ian and Jason picked us up early the
morning of June 30th. We threw our bags into several taxis, took a 30 minute ride to the put in spot, and were paddling away by 2:00 in the afternoon. The first day´s trek was fairly relaxing, and we were delighted to watch a pod of 50 dolphins playing in the water. They circled our boats
several times, and just when it looked like they were leaving for good, the dolphins turned on a dime and came back towards us. Some of them got so close that we could have touched them if we tried hard enough. Lacey was
particularly happy to watch the playful creatures. Several nights before at Moon Up, she said that she would come back as a dolphin if she were to be reincarnated as an animal. After the dolphins bid us adieu, we continued our leisurely paddle and arrived at the first campsite during the late afternoon. The next day was when the trek started to get really good. Before we set off for the next site, we all smothered ourselves in sunscreen. Francis was not kidding around as he used practically an entire bottle of sunscreen.
His skin was a pasty white from the cream, but it was better than being a toasty pink from the sun. The morning paddle was difficult. A storm started to brew, and the accompanying winds made it hard for us to paddle. Also, the gulf started to get pretty choppy. Although I would stop short of calling them waves, the choppy water produced some whitecaps that made for a challenging morning. Luckily, the spot for our lunch break was not too far away. A tasty tuna tortilla lunch awaited us, and it hit the spot after a hard morning of paddling. That afternoon and evening was one of those special Moondance experiences that all of us were seeking. About an hour after lunch, we took another break on a small island in the middle of the gulf. As we were leaving, it began to rain. But it wasn´t the sloppy rain that pounds your face and makes you yearn for dry land. It was a light drizzle that cooled us off and cleared our heads. The water calmed down so much that it began to resemble a mirror flooded with myriad lights of green and blue. Indeed, the afternoon paddle was special. We arrived to at our campsite with plenty of time to spare before dinner. This site had a huge beach with one of the best views we´d ever seen. Mountains in the distance. Palm trees in our midst. Crystal water as far as the eye could see.
Everyone in the group agreed that it was one of the best beaches they´d ever seen. Anders, Kirk, and Francis were our cook crew that day, and they did a fabulous job. Pancakes in the morning, tuna at noon, and hearty pasta in
the evening...no one left the table hungry. It was a fabulous day.
Everette was the first student to wake up the next morning. Lucky for her, she got to take a leisurely stroll down the secluded beach and soak in the warmth of the rising sun. The rest of the group followed suit, and we were on our way by 9 AM. Lindsay had been having a little trouble with her paddling, but on this day she switched boats and finally mastered her strokes. It was encouraging to behold. We paddled away throughout the morning and stopped at another beautiful beach for lunch. Katie and Laura paddle side by side the entire way, discussing everything from medicine to the current state of US politics. By the end of the morning, they were convinced that they´d solved all of the world´s problems. This day, we did not have very far to go, so we were able to spend several hours ´chillaxing´on the beach. Charlie, Chauncey, and Jay took a great walk on
the black sand beach and discussed the trip thus far. All three said that it was already much better than they´d expected it to be, and they all couldn´t believe that only a week remained in their adventure together. A large group of kids spent a good portion of the lunch break hanging out on a nearby pier, soaking up rays and jumping into the water to cool off. At one time, they started playing ´Categories,´a game where just as someone jumped off the dock, another one would yell out a category for the jumper to name. Caroline came up with some really hard categories, and most kids landed in the water without ever being able to name something. However, Anders excelled at the game. The highlight came when, as he was plunging into the water, Caroline shouted, ´A girl´s name´ and Anders, without blinking, yelled, ´Fiona!´ Fiona? Whatever happened to Jane? Or Suzy? The campsite that night was another gorgeous one. After ample time to chill, we cooked dinner, Mooned Up, and went to bed very early. We planned to wake up at 3 AM, get out on the water, and be in the middle of the gulf
by the time the sun rose. When that alarm went off, all 16 of us wished we weren´t so ambitious, but we rallyed anyway. With headlamps fixed firmly to our noggins, we had boats on the water by 3:45 AM. The next hour and a half was as challenging an activity as any of us had ever completed. We were tired, hungry, and groggy from only half a night´s sleep. But no one gave up. Tyler continued to be a positive force for our group, and her hard work and perseverence set the example for the others to follow. By the time the sun rose at 5:30 AM, we were in the middle of the gulf...and the payoff was glorious. The vast array of colors in the sky reflected off the placid water. The seagulls flew in and out of view. The sound of boats rocking and nothing else created a peace unrivalled by any other setting. Everette paddled away from the group and enjoyed some personal time to reflect upon and absorb the unique beauty of the moment. Once we were convinced that the sun was indeed here to stay, we embarked upon the home stretch of the kayaking section. Some Moondancers took it as a personal challenge to finish as strongly as possible. Charlie led the way for the entire time, and with the exception of a break here and there, he never stopped paddling. Amos continued to embody his new nickname (´The
Silent Warrior´) by trucking along, never complaining and rarely stopping. Other Moondancers, however, struggled a bit. The fatigue from the early morning start and the brutal pounding from the morning sun did everything they could to prevent an easy finish to the paddling section. One by one, however, everyone made it. With a pancake breakfast awaiting us, everyone felt satisfied. It was hard to get there, but the joy in the meeting of a challenge and the reward of a well earned rest were enough to ensure that everyone had high spirits. Although exhausted, the smile on Libba´s face never vanished. Like the rest of her Moondance team, she was proud of how far she´d come.
For the Fourth of July, we are going to have a cookout and a slow day to prepare for surfing tomorrow. We´ll surf the legendary Pacific waves for the next three days, and then we´ll head northeast to the Pacuare River for our final section of whitewater rafting. It´s been a whale of a ride so far, and it´s only going to get better. The group has “gelled.” The weather is perfect. And adventure looms. Until next time, pura vida.
Saturday, July 9th
It is amazing how fast this adventure is flying by. When we were back at Freddy’s house, we all kept talking about how much we had to look forward to, especially surfing. Well, now it’s Day 18, the surfing has come and gone, and we start rafting tomorrow.
After a night of camping in Puerto Jimenez, three 4x4 taxis picked us up and took us an hour south of Puerto J. We got settled into our quaint campsite, and were on the beach in no time. Our surfing spot was near Cape Matapalos, the point where the Gulfo Dulce meets up with the Pacific Ocean. We got to look at those famous waves...surely the biggest any of us had ever seen. However, we surfed around the corner at a milder place known as Pan Dulce (Sweet Bread). The first day of surfing was challenging. Many of us had never done it before. Paddling over waves on a board is hard. Timing a wave perfectly is even harder. Like always, Charlie literally jumped head first into the challenge. It didn’t take him long to catch his first wave, and he was surfing for the rest of the day. He was hooked. Kirk had had some surfing experience before, so he looked like a seasoned veteran compared to the rest of us neophytes. He also made it look easy.
For safety reasons and because of surfboard availability, we split the group in half. While one section surfed, the other went on an awesome hike through the rainforest up to a refreshing waterfall. The water was the perfect temperature, and everyone enjoyed a fresh water natural shower. Lindsay particularly enjoyed the hike, and she got a lot of good photos to show for it. Katie also enjoyed the hike, and frequently reminded us of how lucky we were to be seeing what we saw. Before we knew it, we were returning to camp to cook dinner. The first day came and went pretty quickly, just like the rest of the trip.
The next day, we woke up early and ate a delicious pancake breakfast. Francis was on the cook crew, and he impressed everyone with his ability to cook the perfect pancake. Before long, we were meeting up with Axl, our surfing guide from Düsseldorf, Germany. On the second day of surfing, everyone showed marked improvement. Lacey had a blast and was one of the first ones to ride a wave in that day. Libba also rode several waves, but she chose to spend the majority of her time using her surfboard as a raft. There are worse things in the world than soaking up the Costa Rican rays while floating atop the Pacific Ocean. Libba reminded everyone that although we are an adventure group, we’re also still on summer vacation!
That night after dinner, our guide Jason took us to the beach for a huge bonfire. While he and Freddy supervised the fire, Laura and Liz treated us to a guitar and mandolin performance while the rest of us roasted marshmallows and made s’mores. Everette was particularly relaxed and used the tranquil setting to take a nap. I don’t know how she tuned out the revelry and music, but the smile on her face while she slept was more than enough proof that it was the right thing for her to do.
The third and final day of surfing was the best. We made special point to get on the water as early as possible. Tyler had a great time perfecting her technique, and by the end of the day, she had proven to everyone that she has the potential to be a great surfer. Chauncey built on his previous two days of experience and used this day to really take off. According to him, it was the best day of surfing he’d ever had. Amos also began to hit his groove. He won the award that day for the longest wave ridden. The only problem, however, was that he had to paddle all the way back to where we were. I guess it’s a small price to pay for riding waves like a pro. On the flip side, Caroline took a page out of Libba’s book and used her surfboard to bob up and down over the peaceful waves of the Pacific.
Although everyone had success on the waves, the most accomplished surfer by far was Anders. All those summers on the Maine Coast really paid off, and he made catching a wave look easy. In addition to providing inspiration for everyone, he also came up with the best quote of the trip. As he was paddling back out after a thrilling ride, he half screamed, ´Man, we’re surfing in Costa Rica...we gotta live it up while we can! ´ No one could have said it any better.
From here, we trek to the Pacuare River in the East for 2 days of rafting. We then return to San Jose, feast at our banquet dinner, and fly out the next day. It is beyond hard to believe that only 4 days of the trip remain.
It’s been quite a ride so far. We’re looking forward to it getting even better.
July 12, 2005
Wait...I blinked. What just happened? Where did our three weeks go?
Indeed, the Costa Rica Venture went by fast. It seems like only a short time ago that we were picking these strange high school kids up at the San Jose airport. Charlie in his Abercrombie with the collar popped. Chauncey in his tie dye looking like he just got off a tour. Everette, Katie, and Libba wearing that most unbackcountry of fabrics: denim. Who knew then that we would be leaving so fulfilled three weeks later?
The final section of our adventure was our white water rafting trip down the Pacuare River, and it was just as good if not better than all the other sections. Cholo, our local guide, picked us up at the hostel at 7 am sharp. We took a 2 hour bus ride to the river, and we were rafting by noon. Although the first day was comparatively short (about one hour of paddling), the scenery was beautiful, the rapids were strong, and the water felt cool on a hot day. Anders was particularly gung ho about the trek. When Laura woke him up that morning, he immediately yelled, ¨Class 4 Rapids¨as if he´d been dreaming about them. Everette also was pretty psyched to be on the river. She announced later at Moon Up that the rafting had been her favorite part of the trip.
We stayed at the Pacuare Lodge that night. It was a hideaway straight out of Paradise with huge, comfortable tents, modest dining facilities, and the most peaceful sounds of night you´ve ever heard. a rushing river. Eighteen thousand types of cricket serenades. Breezes that were whispers. Everyone slept well that night.
We awoke early the next morning and eagerly set out upon the second day of rafting. Libba and Lindsay paired up with Kirk and Jay to form a powerful paddling team. Libba shared her deep thoughts with everyone while Lindsay had fun falling out of the boat during the big rapids. Luckily, her shoes were electric yellow and floated like fishing bobbers. She managed to recover her footwear despite her frequent spills into the Pacuare.
Charlie and Chauncey captained another boat and tried to outdo each other with their paddling strength. Nothing like a little adolescent male testosterone to get a boat moving fast! Tyler and Lacey enjoyed the fruits of the boys´labor as their day began to resemble a river boat cruise rather than a tough day of paddling. The suntans were nice too.
We reached the take out around 2 pm. After helping Cholo and the boys load all the gear into the warehouse, we boarded our bus and made our way back to the hostel in San Jose. Amos got a kick out of playing ¨Name that Song¨ as Jay´s iPod blared over the scratchy speakers. After a while, however, the game got too easy. The songs of Bob Marley were too nice to consider other music.
That night, we ate our banquet dinner at Nuestra Tierra (Our Land), a local restaurant that served Costa Rican cuisine. Francis started to get scared that he´d never eat rice and beans again, so he orded a double helping. He told the rest of us that he´ll continue to have rice and bean dreams long after he returns to Shreveport.
After dinner, we returned to the hostel for our final Moon Up. Each leader presented a student with a beaded necklace that Freddy´s mom had made. It was a touching ceremony. After the presentations, we sat around and reminisced about the trip. Katie said one of her favorite things was that on the first day, she knew no one, but on the last day, she had 12 new friends. Tyler remarked on how fulfilling it is to have so mmany new, close friends scattered across the United States. Caroline said that she was not going back....Costa Rica would become her new home.
And so, the trip came to an end. At times, people were glad. The thoughts of home, showers, and cell phones were welcome changes to thoughts of rice, beans, sweat,and dirty clothes. However, people were also sad. Although this group was tight and will continue to stay in touch with each other, we all realized that we would probably never assemble as a unit of 16 again. So we savored the moment. And then we reminisced. And then we savored some more. It´s been a great ride guys...something none of us will ever forget. Pura vida, indeed.
Back to 2005 Logs
Back to Trip Logs |
|
