| Northern Lights log (2003-07-14 -> 2003-08-03)
Leaders: MK Williams & Griff Dempsey
Students: Mary Frances Craig, John Carr, Dave Lawton, Joe Finger, Lisa Ulatowski, Peter Hill, Mandy Dauten, Kim Goldstein, William Mitchell
Update, 7/16
MK called to let us know they were off on the sea kayaking section and things were going just fine. Everyone is slowly getting used to the ever present daylight and strange sleep patterns. She sounded fired up and said it appeared they had a group of "rock stars" on their hands. The weather was a little nasty but the group was doing great and they were ready to hit the water. We will post the next update a soon as we get it.
Update 7/21/03
Griff and MK
The great Alaskan experience for Northern Lights 3 has begun! Our amazing group of nine got together on July 14 to begin our 21-day expedition. We have a strong group of 16 and 17 year olds (and old man Dave who is 18) who have so much combined backcountry experience that Griff and I feel like sometimes we're out of a job! It truly is wonderful to have a group that has bonded so quickly and who is ready for the beauty and the challenges of backcountry travel.
We began our course in Anchorage with a preparation day for sea kayaking. After taking out only the necessities from our duffels (including tons of film!) and re-packaging food into Ziplock bags to reduce waste and save space, we headed to Whittier for our last night of "front-country" camping. Whittier is a tiny town located right on Prince William Sound. A couple of years ago it was only open to the railroad, boats, and planes. Since then, the tunnel has been expanded and cars (and the Moondance van) can now fit!
Our shoreline paddle the first two days was absolutely gorgeous. They were typical cloudy and drizzly Alaskan days and the wildlife was enjoying the cool summer. We saw a porcupine climb over the rocky banks and our first bald eagles of the trip. Sea otters played near our boats and a seal popped up every now and then with extreme curiosity! The drizzle did not keep spirits down however; the beauty of Alaska shines through every kind of weather and everyone could sense that. Griff and I were pretty impressed over how well students paddled and set up camp that first day. Again, I can't stress enough how excited we are to have your sons and daughters and friends with us!
On our third day of sea kayaking, we came around a point of an island and were greeted with bright sunshine and cascading glaciers. We all rested in our boats for awhile to absorb it all. We let the tide take us toward the glaciers and more "rivers of ice" came into view. What a sight! We paddled to Black Sand beach which is adjacent to two huge, calving glaciers. Its black sand is formed from the glaciers carving out the mountain side and depositing the remnants of rock from thousands of years ago on the beach. We camped here for two nights in order to spend a day paddling close to Barry and Cox glaciers to get a closer view!
We were sad to leave sea kayaking behind, but we made the most of the rest of that last day by driving to Talkeetna, Alaska, the base for mountaineers climbing Denali, in hopes of viewing "The High One," the native translation of Denali, which is the highest peak in North America. Denali (Mt. McKinley) was out in full glory and we snapped pictures before bypassing a fast food stop each course gets and opting for more of a local cuisine instead.
Griff and I have a super group heading into our burly backpacking section. They know how to pack, how to cook, how to resolve issues and make decisions, and most of all, how to have fun! Peter, Dave, John, Joe, and Kim all have previous Moondance experience and are able to share their stories and knowledge with the rest of the group. Peter's humor, Dave's leadership, John's otter songs, Joe's exceptional expedition behavior, and Kim's high spirits really keep our group going strong. Mandy, Mary Frances, William, and Lisa may as well be Moondance veterans! Mandy and Mary Frances know all the tunes for our paddle songs and Mandy kept us guessing with her riddles. Mary Frances got so good at guessing that she started making up her own riddles to stump us! William is a strong paddler with such a desire to go harder; this desire will get him far. Lisa has a knack for leadership; she is able to keep a clear head in every situation and makes rational decisions.
Here's what they have to say. Above all, Griff and I know that they wish everyone could share it with them!
"This bright blue water surrounded by glacier-filled mountains has got to be the greatest sight I have ever seen. Alaska is such a wonderful place and kayaking has been a blast. I am so happy to be here. Thanks so much mom and A!" --Mary Frances
"Wow! The scenery here cannot be put into words…it's breathtaking! We all fall asleep to the sound of glaciers calving each night, and are greeted by seals and birds each morning! Thank you so much mom and dad for making this all possible!" --Mandy
"Sea kayaking was absolutely phenomenal. The wild life was amazing. The glaciers topped off the immaculate scenery of the Sound. We have a great group and great leaders. I love you and miss you dad and Shirley. I love you and miss you Kate." --Peter
"Just finished kayaking and now we're headed for Denali and then hike to the Talkeetnas! Then, who knows!" --William
"Our kayaking trip was incredible. Everyone of us had a great time. The mountains and glaciers were definitely worth the trip. Also, the wildlife was fun to watch. Now we're off to the Talkeetnas!" --Joe
"Kayaking was great fun, especially when we saw the glaciers. We are now done and are going to see Denali. Then to the Talkeetnas!" --Dave
"Kayaking was a blast. The snow-capped mountains and beautiful glaciers fulfilled my every expectation of Alaska. We are heading toward Denali and then on to backpacking!" --John
"Hey everyone! I miss you all so much. We have been having so much fun here. The views have been so beautiful. We ran into some rain the first two days but the last three have been beautiful. We have really bonded. I did a polar plunge and ran into 37 degree water! It was so much fun! I just want to say thank you for letting me come here. I wish you could share this experience with me. I just want to give a shout out to some folks. Mom-I hope you had fun in Colorado. Michael, I miss you! Thanks for the film! Sarah, I hope you feel ok! Kara, smile! Life is good. Love, Kim, Metch, Kimma, Pumpkin!"
"Alaska is everything I expected and more…This is definitely the experience of a lifetime and I am by far one of the luckiest people to be here. I just shudder to think in just 14 days it will be over. I wish more than anything you could all be here because I know you'd love it too. Miss you and I guess I'll see you soon mom, dad, Becky, Ajay, and everyone else!" --Lisa
Off to backpacking!
Griff and Mary Kathryn
Update 7/3/03
We're back in the land of stoplights and cars and horns and front-country campsites after an unbelievable backpacking and rafting experience in the Talkeetnas. Griff and I were excited to take our group into this BIG and WILD land after having so much fun with them sea-kayaking. After having a day of preparation for our 10-day venture (which required packing enough food to feed all of us, distributing group gear like pots, pans, tents, stoves, fuel, and utensils, and learning how to handle possible backcountry encounters with lightning, moose, or bears) our group was ready to learn how to properly carry their home on their back, and walk in boots with 50 more pounds of weight to handle! We feasted on egg and cheese English muffins and bid adieu to our creature comforts to enjoy a more simple, and in many ways, more real way of living.
Our first day of backpacking was gruesome as our group pushed up a saddle 1500 feet above the trailhead. Trudging through mud and feeling the burn in our legs, we helped each other out with songs, laughs, and words of encouragement. With our goal in site hours later, we made the final push through fast-flowing drainages and set up our tents. We awoke along Hicks Creek to more sunshine and fresh blueberries for our cereal that I had picked along the trail the day before! We were continuously greeted with delights as we hiked along Divide, Caribou, and Glass creeks. From fresh blueberries to sharing the trail with caribou, Alaska truly is a land of extremes. The mountains are big, the rivers are overflowing, and the grizzly prints are larger than Griff's and Dave's size 13 boots! No worries mom and dad, we never had to practice our animal protocol with bears; however, William and John did have a surprise on the trail when they were the first to spot a caribou anxious to share it with us!
Our route took us along the ridges overlooking Glass creek, but we took the time to explore the creek bed to see some more beauty. After hopping along the creek bed and getting our feet a little wet, we turned the corner to watch a 300ft waterfall cascade into the creek. Our group was quick to understand that it is for these simple pleasures that we backpack; reaching a goal (the Chickaloon River in our case) is important, but not our ultimate reason for being out here. To experience a waterfall or to watch three beavers play by our campsite, or to help out a friend's tent during a MASSIVE windstorm is why we're here and why we all love it. We had excellent leadership once again from our Moondance vets and first years who already have backcountry travel dialed in. Mandy, John, and Kim fixed fluffy chocolate chip pancakes for breakfast following our 50 mile hike to the Chickaloon, and Dave and John demonstrated exceptional expedition behavior during a wind and rain storm as they braved the elements to retrieve snacks and to help cook pasta with alfredo sauce for dinner! Peter is on his way to being a motivational speaker; though our "leaders of the day" planned Moon-up, our evening conversation about the day, about Alaska, and about life, Peter amazed us all with his mature and passionate outlook on life and with his endless supply of quotes to help us reflect on all of the emotion we were experiencing. William's drive for success and for "the burn" helped lead the group up the saddle from the headwaters of Glass Creek and he provided some stiff competition for Clif with his energy bar concoction for the Iron Chef competition! Our second morning on the trail, William, Dave, and John surprised cook crew (and those of us still in our tents!) with eggs and bacon! Simple pleasures such as those are what made our trip so memorable. Lisa, or "Lady Alaska," kept us all in good spirits with her expressions of awe every time we reached a vista or saw flowers on the trail. She was so energetic about her experience that those around her could not help but to feel inspired. Mary Frances and Dave were the dynamic duo as leaders of the day-they christened the headbands and passed on their tradition! Kim's previous Moondance experience prepared her for the challenges of Alaska and she accepted them with open arms and a grateful spirit. New to Moondance, Mandy Dauten kept us laughing on the trail with her laughter, and settled in quickly with the joys of backcountry travel.
After pushing up the saddle and enjoying a mountain traverse in beautiful weather, our group made it safely down to the Chickaloon River and had a day of rest before the rafts flew in via helicopter. We said farewell to our route and the creature comforts we had learned to live without were not missed. Our new family had experienced the greatest comfort there is-the triangle of food, shelter, and friends.
Griff and I could go on and on about our group and our experience with them, but here are their thoughts:
"Backpacking was unbelievable! After sea-kayaking I thought the trip couldn't possibly get any better, but I was very wrong. For ten days we only saw each other and there wasn't any sign of civilization. The backcountry was gorgeous and the beauty so pure. It's amazing to think we survived for over a week carrying our home on our back. Thanks again mom and dad for such a wonderful trip!" --Mandy Dauten
"I thought backpacking was awesome. Being out in the backcountry for 11 days really puts things into perspective. I loved getting to the top of the pass everyday and looking back at all my hard work. We had a great group and Moondance was even better this summer! Mom and dad, thank you so much for everything you do for me and once again for letting me come on Moondance!" --Kim Goldstein
"The Talkeetna mountain range was amazing! Waking up to the beautiful views for 10 days was more than I could ever ask for. The trip was a challenge, but after every difficult stretch, the view made up for any pain I may have had. Backpacking was absolutely wonderful and a great experience." --Mary Frances Craig
"The venture through the great rolling hills of Alaska was awesome. Cold air, wet ground, and warm tents were all very welcoming. It was all fun, and will be sad to leave." --William Mitchell
"I just saw the tallest peak in North America from over 200 miles away. The beauty of the Alaska wilderness is ineffable to the people who have never been there. I love you and miss you Kate. Thank you Daddy and Shirley for sending me again. I love you and miss you all." --Peter Hill
"Throughout the backpacking experience I found myself constantly contemplating the idea that Alaska is America's last frontier for mass natural beauty. I've been to the Rockies in Colorado and the Tetons in Wyoming, but Alaskan backpacking has earned a special place in my mind." --John Carr
"It's my last day in Alaska and I really don't know what to say. This trip has been AMAZING. The scenery of the mountains during backpacking was incredible. Waking up in the morning without mountains surrounding me is going to be weird. I just want to thank Moondance, my leaders, and my group for making my journey in Alaska an experience of a lifetime. I will never forget it, I promise you that." --Lisa Ulatowski
"Backpacking was awesome-the views were great! I loved getting to the top and looking back at what I and we accomplished. I loved the backpacking trip." --Dave "Brubie"
"Backpacking was definitely an incredible sight. I loved seeing the wildlife, especially the caribou. The craziest thing was being in a windstorm above Glass Creek. The wind was so powerful that it felt like 100mph winds instead of 35mph. Everyone was great and helped out during the windstorm, especially if other tents were having problems. The trip has been absolutely incredible and I hope to come back!" --Joe Finger
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