| Northern Lights log (2003-07-14 -> 2003-08-03)
Leaders: Carter Ramsay & Kirsten Johnson
Students: Paul Matthews, Hadley Miller, Molly Hennessy, Martin Waters, Lizzie Gregory, Alex Elliott, John Carr, Katherine Anderson
Update, 7/16
We received a message from Carter letting us know that the group was headed out into the great Alaskan backcountry. The group spent a day preparing for this extended backcountry section and they were ready to go. Never short on enthusiasm, Carter reported this group was getting ready to have a blast. It will be sometime before we hear from this group, but will post the next report as soon as we get it.
Bacpacking, Rafting Update 7/28/03
Greetings from Alaska! All is well and we are in Anchorage for a brief re-stock for fresh ingredients needed for our Sea-Kayaking section such as fruits, vegetables, Alaskan shrimp and Andouille sausage...just to name a few. Our backpacking section was a phenomenal success, pioneering even more new game trails in the Talkeetna Mountains and finishing on record water- level rafting trip on the Chickaloon River. Due to our length in the backcountry we'll rewind and try to provide a narrative beginning at Matanuska campground in Palmer, AK, (our first evening together).
After a short stint at the airport we headed to Palmer for a huge feast of chicken fajitas...a treat courtesy of leader Kirsten Johnson, (a true perfectionist within the culinary world). Sleep was somewhat restless as a result of the midnight sun and high energy levels. The next morning, without hesitation, the group began to bond, (after bacon and eggs) and a our Moondance veterans John, Martin and Alex stepped up to the plate providing leadership and assistance during a day packed with lessons ranging from "packing a pack" to our Leave No Trace ethics in the wilderness. In a new Alaskan tradition, to finalize an incredible days work, we devoured 10oz. New York Strip(s) marinated in a blend of orange juice, garlic, and a few secrets grilled on an open charcoal flame with fresh garlic and wasabi red skin mashed potato buried in butter. With a good dinner in our bellies we loaded up and headed for the trailhead to position ourselves for an early start on the trail the following day. The first day of backpacking consists of a short distance, (five miles), but the elevation gain of nearly 2000ft with full packs really tested our mental and physical limits; as leaders, (Kirsten and I), were blown away. Upon reaching our proposed campsite Hadley and Katherine looked at the maps and asked: "Are we allowed to camp here, at this lake?" The rest of the group concurred and wanted to continue. (The lake in question was Hicks Lake...six miles further and the site scheduled for our second night in the backcountry.) We were astonished; first, Hadley and Katherine had mastered the maps on the first day and on top of that everyone was ready to keep moving after an epic uphill. Wow. The tone had been set and the atmosphere was clear: this group was going to challenge themselves whenever possible. The weather was beautiful every day on the trail and the pace was phenomenal. Each and every person has a unique aspect he or she contributes as an integral gear in our well-oiled machine of a group. I really want to go into meticulous detail about each day, but we must leave soon so I will try and pull out some highlights.
The food was awesome each day and I think Lizzie is destined to be a culinary artist if not a political candidate; her ability to make chicken alfredo in the backcountry was absolutely amazing. Our meals included fresh bacon and eggs, chili cheese burritos with three pounds of ground beef, chocolate chip pancakes, fried bagels, hummus, chicken alfredo, chicken pesto pasta with fresh shaved parm and pepperoni calzones on the last day of hiking. Tonight we will have halibut and the following evening dinner on the Prince William Sound will consist of a Southern special of cheese grits with Alaskan shrimp and a little sausage. The best part is that the students have cooked every single meal!!!!!! During our backpacking section we tracked a herd of migratory Caribou. Each of our campsites were very exclusive and usually on either an Alpine Lake or crystal-clear snowmelt creek or river. John and Martin were the two brave souls to continue in the tradition of a polar plunge at 5000ft during our stay at the "Three Sisters Lake(s)" on the ridge of Caribou pass. Yet, what really perfected our efficiency in the campsites, (both setting up and striking camp), was the leadership provided by Molly and Paul. They were always keeping the group focused on the need to have a "bomber" site.
Upon our arrival at the Chickaloon River we set-up on the banks for a nice day of rest after completing nearly 50 miles of hiking. The day following our rest-day we finished breakfast to the sound of an approaching turbine- helicopter. The pilot landed 40ft away on the river bank and our three rafting guides clad with gear unloaded. We said good-bye to our packs, boots and gaiters and hello to the cushion of the rafts for two days. The Chickaloon River is fed by the Chickaloon Glacier which means the water fluctuates between 34 and 42C, moves really fast and has huge rapids. Alaskan rivers are extremely young and swift--a must for any avid rafter. I wish time was not pressing, but we must leave for Whittier, AK to meet out
sea-kayaking guide and brief our itinerary. I will leave you all with a personal message from each student...
Alex: Hi!!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY, WILLIAM!!! Ooooh, please do not let William see my A.P. results. I'm sure they're fine. Anywho, I love you--duh--and remember, talk to Bill about when to pick me up at the airport. Oooo, also, may I come back again next year?
Katherine: Hey guys! I hope everything is going well down East. I bet it's really hot right now. I'm having so much fun. Banks, hey buddy! I hope Rockmont was fun and you and Charlie got to hangout some. Someone is going to be 12 soon!! Happy Birthday buddy!! Mom and Dad, I miss ya'll so much and hope ya'll are having fun with Banks. Can't wait to see everyone! Oh yeah, Mom and Dad don't read THE LETTER from you know who! I LOVE YOU GUYS!!
Lizzie: Hi Mom, Dad, George and Margaret!! I am having an amazing time! Everything we wanted and more. I am thinking of you! LOVE YOU TONS!!!
Hadley: Hey Mom, Dad, Trey and Matthew! I am having an awesome time here in Alaska. I hope everything is going great back home. I love and miss ya'll!!
Martin: Thanks Mom, Dad and God. I have learned a lot about life! A spike Caribou stared right into my eyes. I miss boobrain; HiBi. Hey DORK, your a dork and Alaska is so cool. I love you...bye.
John: Hey Mom, Kate and Tucker!!! Alaska is great and I'll see ya'll soon.
Paul: Hey Mom and Dad, Alaska is great...hope Atlanta is treating you well. I'm doing fine with the bears and meese. I've learned a lot about who I am and I finished my book. p.s. rafting was a blast! and hiking was superlicious!
Molly: Mom, Dad and Robert--I'm having tons of fun and my group leaders are great. I miss you tons and can't wait to see you...only 34 more days. Love, Mols
Update, 7/3/03
WE SAW A HUMPBACK WHALE!!! The sea-kayaking section was a blast and on the second-to-last day as we were cooking pancakes on the beach of Hobo Bay our guide heard the whale blow. We rushed around the point of the beach and caught a spectacular sight as the solo Humpback surfaced one last time before diving just off shore.
The group, in an earnest homestretch drive, really capitalized on our options in the Sound and sought the most possible out of their final section together.
Our first night in Whittier, AK, (after meeting our sea kayaking guide Seth), was spent preparing and repacking all of our personal and group gear into dry-bags for the following five days. Yet, the packing and transition was eased due to the stuffing our bellies received consisting of Halibut and Shrimp that was pulled out of the Prince William Sound less than 12 hours prior...the epitome of fresh. The following morning our wake up call was pre-sunrise:30 and we chartered one hour East out to Kelly's Cove. (Initially, we were to paddle out of Whittier, but due to high winds between 20 and 30 knots the white caps and swells were a little too intimidating.) Kelly's Cove was like glass and we were graced with a refreshing dose of liquid sunshine to begin our trek.
After a quick 10 mile paddle we arrived at camp, set up tents and enjoyed shrimp and Monterey Jack grits; a few members were hesitant at first to devour something called grit, but with the culinary affirmation and approval from Katherine everyone dug in. The first two nights in Herriman Fjord were spent on a secluded campsite three-miles across the water from Black Sand Beach that provided a breath-taking view of Cox and Barry Glacier(s). Even from that distance we were awoken each night and startled during the day due to the thundering crash of massive ice formations calving from the glacier face. During our base camp we paddled on our second day to Surprise Glacier nearly eight miles away after biscuits and gravy for breakfast. The 16 mile roundtrip was grueling and with the sincere motivation from Molly and Alex the group pushed on and finished the day with a huge and hot dinner of sausage and four-cheese pasta. The third day we packed up and paddled to our new camp at Hobo Bay. (Everyone was a little eager to leave after Martin and John found and identified a very fresh MOUND of bear scat no more than 20ft from camp.) Each day was absolutely beautiful with dramatic scenery and vivid color.
While paddling we encountered numerous sea otters, Bald Eagles, jumping silver salmon and due to the keen eyes of Hadley and Paul we were able to see a few Harbor Seals. Our final day on the water started with fried bagels in a pool of butter and a quaint little breeze. Within the first hour the breeze hit puberty and we found ourselves paddling to Whittier in the same weather we chartered out in with blasting gusts. Even in the wind and with a temperamental rudder Lizzie and Katherine were not phased and pushed everyone during the last stretch. The salt spray in our faces was great for our complexions and we soon found ourselves back in the safe harbor of Whittier.
Our time in Alaska is wrapping up and everyone is already beginning to think back on their favorite moments(and meals!) over our past weeks together. Tonight, (unbeknownst to them), will be a massive feast of gourmet pizza from the Moose's Tooth Restaurant in Anchorage, (a local favorite)...our last meal together.
Kirsten and I would like to thank Molly, Alex, Hadley, Lizzie, Katherine, John Carr, Paul and Martin for a phenomenal trip and fantabulous experience.
Until the next Moondance Adventure...
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