| Northern Lights log (2003-06-19 -> 2003-07-09)
Leaders: MK Williams & Carter Ramsay
Students: Gavin Kastner, Huntley Chapman, Drew Baldwin, Hunter Craft, Eric Fabacher, Megan Stiles, Jenn Majors
Backpacking Talkeetnas - June 21
"What an amazing group of kids!" was the first response from Mary Kathryn (MK). At their first Moonup, (which took place late the first evening though still lots of daylight) they all felt that they had already connected with each other. Led by two of Moondance's finest, they are destined to have an amazing experience. Carter just completed a successful summit of Mt. McKinley earlier this month and as always, he is full of stories. With 7 students from 6 different states, the bond has already formed and they are excited about spending three weeks together. Having Gavin, Drew and Huntley, all veteran Moondancers on this trip adds quite a bit to their early success. The fact that they are all on their third trip with us lets them take a big lead in making sure everyone is ready for their incredible backpacking trip getting ready to take place. The necessary task of properly packing a backpack, menu planning or what to bring has been handled by not only their leaders, but by these vets as well. Drew's sense of humor is keeping everyone in stitches. Hunter is a "rock star" according to MK. He and Megan are the LOD's (Leaders of the Day) today and have already mastered proper EB (Expedition Behavior). EB is simply putting others needs before your own and they have the respect of all their group. Jenn has really blossomed and has mastered Mafia, a game everyone loves to play. She seems very excited for the beginning of the backpacking trip.
The group will depart Saturday afternoon and not return to the frontcountry until the evening of July 1st, so the adventure begins. This will be a remarkable backcountry experience which will culminate as their rafts are flown in and they will end this section of the trip with a wild two days whitewater rafting on the Chickaloon River. Check back July 2nd for tales of this amazing journey.
Backpacking and Rafting the Chickaloon, 6/21 - 7/2
We're back in the world of vans, trailers, stoplights, and authentic Alaskan fast food (mom and pop dives with fresh halibut sandwiches.yum!) but only for a day-our rock star group heads to Prince William Sound tonight to begin a five-day sea kayaking section before having to bid adieu.
This group jumped right in to their backcountry experience with 12 days in the Talkeetna Mountains and on the Chickaloon River; following everyone's arrival, we had one day to repackage food and pack our backpacks before heading out on June 21-the Summer Solstice. (Alaska is the perfect place to be for the longest day of the year-no need for headlamps here!) It wasn't long before we were out of our van and on the trail. Packs were heavy- between 45-60 pounds for students-but Carter and I were amazed at how well everyone handled the weight (and without complaints!) This group truly is a spectacular crew. Everyone contributes crucial elements to the team, be it a certain leadership style, endless jokes, or smiles on rainy days.
After a couple of days of hiking on ATV trails, our group was ready to begin trailblazing. Northern Lights is unique in that we are the only group to incorporate an off-trail section during backpacking. This can be especially challenging in Alaska given the moist tundra we have to navigate and the traverses along ridgelines and drainages that are necessary to reach our final destination-the Chickaloon River. This is the first time a Moondance group has been on this route and our team did an excellent job route finding and scouting. Our first major challenge was a river crossing at Caribou "Creek." Eric claimed his boots stayed dry but we don't believe him! After two of these crossings in thirty minutes, our group was ready for more! On our first night together, everyone said that the one thing they wanted to be able to say at the end of the trip was "no regrets." They want to try everything they possibly can and get as wet and dirty as possible! (No worries mom and dad, showers will be had by all (except maybe Hunter) before heading home!)
Our off-trail section took up upstream of Caribou Creek until the confluence with Glass Creek; the entire way we had been following fresh caribou, moose, and grizzly tracks and on Day 5, Carter spotted a cow moose and her calf up on a ridge! No grizzlies yet however. We feasted on pancakes one morning, bacon and eggs another, chili with fresh meat, and pasta casserole to get us ready for our final descent to the Chickaloon River. When we got to the headwaters of Glass Creek for a layover day before the descent, we were greeted by two snowfalls! Leave it to our group to build a snowman, complete with a Moondance t-shirt and hat! We had a burly, 9.5 mile descent down to the river and the airstrip where rafts were being flown in the next day for our whitewater section. The weather held for us while we carefully traversed a ridge, following game trail when we could. Ten hours later, we reached the airstrip and Erik, Megan, Jennifer, and Drew, though exhausted, helped cooked two pizzas that were devoured in minutes!
Our group really is phenomenal. Carter and I are so grateful to be a part of their experience. Their intelligence, humor, thoughtfulness, and eagerness has certainly taught me a thing or two about what it means to lead "the good life." Gavin is the natural leader whose voice is never raised-a leader who doesn't have to be the center of attention in order to be heard and respected. He is there to help finish loading the trailer, or clarify topo maps for anyone who may be confused about the route. Eric's comic relief brings even more life to an already lively group and his Hawaiian shorts in the backcountry only add to his persona (especially when combined with his aviator sunglasses!) Eric is a strong outdoorsman. Carter and I hope that he will act on his interest of pursuing more trips with his friends-he's certainly capable. Jennifer, as we like to say at Moondance, "gets it done." She is a backcountry rockstar who isn't afraid to get in the kitchen first or begin our nightly Moon ups with questions about everyone's day. She makes rational decisions for the group and for herself when things can get a little crazy with weather or spirits. Drew gets the 'route finder of the year' award. He was always up front during the off- trail section and always managed to find the perfect caribou or moose trails for us along ridges or through brush. He ties a great taut-line and is ready to teach it to anyone who asks! Megan is a quiet leader with a good head on her shoulders. She is part of the dynamite trio of girls who seem to always get their tent up first, without fail! Megan has exceptional Expedition Behavior (EB) which is so necessary for any group in backcountry. EB means helping a friend or the leader of the day with any requests, listening and following through, bringing the group back to reality when spirits get a little out of control, and ALWAYS being a willing participant. (She's an excellent spades partner too!) Hunter's curiosity and excitement level is out of this world! Be it reading a map, playing mafia, spotting a moose on the river, or figuring out something new, he has a smile on his face and laughter on his lips. He is a true team player. Huntley uses her veteran characteristics to keep to the group moving on the trail, in the kitchen, or during tent set-up (yep, she, Jennifer, and Megan will always beat the boys when it comes to that!) She has a radiant smile that you can't help but love even when it has been a long day and blisters are burning.
Carter and I could go on and on, but here are their perspectives: Huntley: "Moondance is great. We just finished our backpacking section. It was very difficult and challenging. It was cold and it even snowed-we made a Moondance snowman! The sun never goes down. The mountains were beautiful; we saw incredible views. Rafting was a nice break from backpacking. Hey mom and dad! I hope your arm is OK dad. Having a great time and I have met great new people."
Megan: "Moondance is so fun and the scenery is beautiful!"
Eric: Alaska is beautiful. We have seen two sets of cow moose with their babies and many ptarmigans (the state bird). The backpacking was very challenging but had many rewarding views. Rafting was awesome."
Hunter: "I've had a great time at Moondance and can't wait till next summer. Alaska is great."
Drew: "I've been having a great time in Alaska. The scenery is incredible and the group is fun. The polar plunges have been cold but worth it. We are about to start our final leg with sea kayaking."
Gavin: "Alaska is great. Much greener that expected. I'm having an awesome time and am disappointed that we only have 7 days left. The group is great. Mom, dad, and Simone, I miss you and will see you soon."
Jennifer: "The trip has been great! Our group is small but awesome. Backpacking has been a challenge, but the landscape is beautiful and the experience is amazing. Rafting was a ton of fun. Rae, I can't wait to see you, Shannon, I wish you were here with me, mom and day, I love and miss you."
We're off to Whittier, Alaska (just south of Anchorage) to begin sea kayaking! We'll be in touch! Until then,
Carter and Mary Kathryn (MK)
Sea Kayaking, Prince William Sound, 7/3 - 7/8
It's our last day together and what an amazing trip this has been for everyone. It was one of the best Carter and I have had and happy, but perhaps tired, students will fly back "down South" tomorrow morning. We're sad to see it end. Alaska is truly God's country and the wilderness experience here is like no other.
After our two-day rafting section on the Chickaloon River, our group headed to Whittier, Alaska to begin our 5-day paddling trip in Prince William Sound-a home to countless glaciers and marine life. The drive on Highway One South whetted our appetites for sea-kayaking. We followed beautiful shoreline and got glimpses of glaciers spilling down the valleys they had carved a millennia ago. We arrived in Whittier via our van; had we made this journey 10 years ago, it would have only been possible by boat or plane. The railroad company agreed to open their tunnel every hour for vehicles to pass through!
We pulled into Whittier on a drizzly evening and were preparing for rain all five days. We loaded our charter boat for the 2-hour trip to our put-in point and the sun was brightly shining shortly thereafter. In fact, the sun stayed out all five days! No rain, just tan lines and naps on the beach during breaks!
We paddled that first day to a beach that was to become our home for two nights. On that first paddle day, we became familiar with our boats, the tides, packing dry bags, and even spotted a few sea otters! Everyone quickly adjusted to their new mode of travel and were probably glad to give their legs a little break. After a dinner of cheesy grits and hash browns smothered with onions and sausage, we turned in for the night. On the backpacking and rafting sections, we slept by rivers and were lulled to sleep by their whitewater; here, we were able to hear the glaciers calve consistently through the night.
We set out for a day paddle to Surprise Glacier the next afternoon and were rewarded after a long day on the water with amazing views of Surprise. We were able to get within 1/4 mile of the glacier (any closer and our little boats would have been rocked too hard by the waves the icebergs make after they break off from the glacier) and watched it slowly recede for about an hour. We paddled through the ice flows it had created and watched in amazement as seals and sea otters played in the icy water. Upon our return, we sang the Star Spangled Banner and feasted on chocolate silk pie with red, white, and blue icing for the Fourth of July. No fireworks in this summer sky!
We paddled to Barry Glacier the next day for lunch on its black sand beach, and again, watched this huge river of ice in action. We shared a beach with other boaters that evening who did have fireworks-you could see traces of their sparks! It was another long mileage day, but the group did exceptionally well-they paddled twice as fast as they had done two days prior! Drew stayed in a single kayak all five days-he loved it! It takes a strong paddler to NEVER switch out, and Drew handled the challenge well. Eric and Hunter did well as a team. On our paddle back from Surprise Glacier, they were the first to reach camp (Megan and I were paddling super hard just to keep within a safe distance!) and had the bear bags down and the kitchen ready for dinner by the time the rest of the group arrived! Now that's great Expedition Behavior (EB)! Gavin was in singles and doubles throughout the trip-going wherever needed as always-and, if I'm not mistaken, initiated the first pump wars in the boats. The water was 37 degrees, but felt really nice on these hot days. In fact, Hunter, Eric, and Gavin probably got a little more water than they wanted when waves overtook the small gravel bar their boats were on during a break and filled their cockpits and boots! Megan, Huntley, and Jenn remained the dynamite trio on the water; any boat with a girl in it ALWAYS was the first ready and on the water.
Our last night in the backcountry was perhaps one of the most beautiful places I have ever camped. Our tents were on the beach at Decision Point, overlooking blue glacial water with blue skies above. It was the perfect beach for skipping stones, taking a nap, writing, reading, or just remembering the previous 19 days we had all shared together. Our paddle back to Whittier was short, but arduous; we paddled against a significant headwind for 5 miles but of course, everyone remained happy and content. We're back in the life of stoplights, traffic, and pollution, but luckily for the nine of us, we got to experience a little slice of heaven first. Thanks ya'll for such a great course!
Until next year,
Carter and Mary Kathryn (MK)
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